Recent content by retroactive85

Another 10 days gone by playing it a bunch and no blown flipper fuse. So either replacing the coil or insulating that kickback wire that was rubbing through to the coil stop did the trick. That was a good thing to note earlier Menace. That didn't turn out to be my problem exactly, but got me...

Interestingly enough, not quite the same scenario but made me look closer, the "insulated" wire that runs to the kickback on T3 was rubbing against the coil stop and had worn through the black protective shrink tubing and exposed the two colored wires underneath. Now I believe the two wires...

Argh! After a solid week of play with no issues the fuse finally blew again. I have a new coil on order... Hopefully that does the trick, I'm running out of things to try!

After replacing that diode I've played a significant number of games with no blown fuse, hours of play. I'm very hopeful that it did the trick. I did find this thread on Pinside suggesting that perhaps diodes can cause this kind of issue - for what it's worth...

Well I went ahead and replaced the diode and have played many many successful games with no issue. The diode tested good at .6, but perhaps it was "leaky" and intermittently failing. I was reading the below article that might explain why the diode tested good with my digital multi meter but...

I clipped the diode on that coil and tested it. It tested the same as the replacement diode I have for it. Is it possible that the diode is still the culprit? Do they intermittently go bad? Also if a coil diode goes bad, wouldn't it blow the transistor, not the fuse? I'm confused!!

Bummer, I'm back! Went through two fuses in the last two weeks. Played roughly 30 games in that time period. I replaced the Q15 transistor with an IRL540N today and thought perhaps I had solved the problem until it blew again. Oh well at least I have the more robust transistor installed now...

No worries. Yes, they all came from the same Bussman MDL3 case. The original fuse in there was the correct value as well. I'm at a loss as to what would randomly blow the flipper fuse 3 times if not the coil or the transistor. Guess I'll report back in if/when it blows the next time. Would...

I just played 5 games with numerous multiballs including one grand champ score hitting the wizard mode. Held in the flippers, hit them rapidly, etc and no blown fuse. Who knows... had fun at least!

Well I tested both coils and they read the exact same in the ohm test at 11. I looked around for anything obvious that would be randomly shorting it but didn't see anything around the flipper mechs of concern.

Sounds good, I'll test both coils with my meter in a few hours after work and compare. I'm stoked to get this T3 100%, I picked it up HUO for a very nice price and it's been on my wish list for a while. I've done rubbers, bulbs, balls, and a thorough cleaning. Looks like a new game, just has...

That's a very good question, and I meant to mention that. It's the fuse under the playfield right by the flipper. Replacing it with the specified 3 Amp Slow Blow fuse.

I manually moved the flippers to the up position and watched the screen for activation. Normally they are closed, when the flipper reached end of stroke it showed as open in switch test. I mentioned in my first post that I can play 5 to 10 games and not have an issue. I even tried holding...

Yes indeed, I tested both flippers in switch test and saw nothing to make me believe the switches weren't working correctly. I was curious if maybe the coil was the issue. I found a few threads on testing the coils, worth a shot. Since the problem is so intermittent, makes me wonder if a...

I tested both EOS switches in switch test. Both test fully closed at rest, and open at the same point in the stroke. Also tested both flipper buttons to make sure they made constant contact when pressed, and didn't lose contact intermittently. I'd think the EOS switch is not the issue. What...