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GTB Raven sound issues

Discussion in 'Pinball Tech Support' started by Topher5001, Nov 4, 2016.

  1. Topher5001

    Topher5001 Member

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    Okay, I'll call Al & see if he can dig up his soundboard. Won't know if it's the board or ROMs until I try.
    Thanks everyone for your help. I'll let you know if I get it working.
     
    #41
  2. Topher5001

    Topher5001 Member

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    While in attract mode it was resetting, where the display would flash & some relay would click, so I checked the 5v at A1J1. I know I set it to 5v, but it was 4.8v, so I set it to 4.96v. When I did this, it made the explosion sound so I went through the sound checks.
    It made one sound when I grounded pin 5 in connector A6J1 & another sound when I grounded pin 2 on chip Z13 on the driver board. None of the other tests did anything. The sounds occurred when I took the lead off the pins.
    Is this of any significance? I was going to take the driver board in & have Z13 socketed & replaced & if that didn't work, call the tech & see if he can find his sound board to try. Does this narrow it down any?
     
    #42
  3. shinynick

    shinynick Member

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    I just saw this thread - I had a similar problem with a Raven where the sounds were really strange and it turned out to be an option dip switch on the sound board for background sounds! It really drove me nuts for weeks... not all 80B games have this non-standard option.
    Sorry if someone already mentioned this or if you already checked the switches! I should have a .pdf copy of the manual if you need one.
    nick
     
    #43
  4. Topher5001

    Topher5001 Member

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    Hi shinynick. I have the manual & the dip switches are set correctly. I'll mess with them though & see if anything changes.
    Interestingly, after not having any sound for a month or two, the sound came back Sunday.
     
    #44
  5. Menace

    Menace Well-Known Member
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    If all of the pins in the game haven't been replaced yet and all of the ground mods done, I would be focusing my time on all of that before you continue. Yes it's a LOT of work, but clearly the game sound works just intermittent. PCB level components don't usually exhibit this behavior but bad connectors / pins / cold solder etc certainly cause this.

    D
     
    #45
  6. Topher5001

    Topher5001 Member

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    There's a couple single-sided connectors, A1J1 being one, that I haven't done & I haven't done the double-sided connectors. I've done all the ground mods. The game sound isn't just intermittent, it's all messed up. I think it plays every sound constantly.
     
    #46
  7. Menace

    Menace Well-Known Member
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    Well, you're having lots of different intermittent issues which leads me to believe these are being caused by bad/flakey connector pins. Before you keep chasing your tail, I would eliminate all of the connector pins by replacing them. Then you will have at least eliminated all of the weak points in the game, and can focus on theory of operation.

    D
     
    #47
  8. Topher5001

    Topher5001 Member

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    Will do. I only have the 0072 (?) Molex pins. Will they fit in the double-sided connectors? Is it a pain to do the double-sided ones?
     
    #48
  9. Menace

    Menace Well-Known Member
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    It is a pain to do the double sided ones. As for what pins work, not sure now as the split pins originally used in the double sided connectors are no longer available. I would just look into buying an assembled replacement from someone like Docent Electronics for the double sided harnesses.

    D
     
    #49
  10. Topher5001

    Topher5001 Member

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    Unfortunately, the Docent appears to be only a kit where you reuse the housings. I'll search around & see if a kit's available.
    Edit: Yikes! Could only find a 7" at Marco for $55 US. Guess I'll try re-pinning.
     
    #50
    Last edited: Feb 21, 2017
  11. Topher5001

    Topher5001 Member

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    I read about using a DMM to check logic, so I checked the logic on Z13 on the driver board (you get used to playing with no sound).
    Leg =0.16; Leg 2=2.34; L3=0.16; L4=0.49; L5=0.12; L6=5.08; L8=5.08; L9=0.16; L10=3.97; L11=0; L12=3.99; L13=0 & the Vcc=4.99.
    Legs 3 & 4 both being low, it looks like I need to have Z13 replaced, correct? Would this cause no sound at all or just the loss of one sound?
    Leg 2 looks suspect too, but I have no clue if it is.
    Any Gottlieb experts know if the rest look okay or if I should check other chips?
     
    #51
  12. Topher5001

    Topher5001 Member

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    I checked Z13 in diode mode with it disconnected & this is what I got. I assume my DMM's not displaying the decimal & 015 is actually 0.15.
    L1=717; L2=578; L3=716; L4=015; L5=572; L6=574; L8=578; L9=711; L10=577; L12=586
    So, with leg 4 being low, I guess the chip's bad?
     
    #52
  13. Topher5001

    Topher5001 Member

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    Taking it to NuTech tomorrow to have Z13 socketed & replaced.
     
    #53
  14. Topher5001

    Topher5001 Member

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    Well, got this working! A guy from Pinside, Erak, came over Saturday with is friend's Hollywood Heat SB. It worked & luckily his friend was willing to sell.
    I guess what happened was I re-pinned the connector backwards, sent 12v somewhere it shouldn't have gone & then chased my tail. I thought the SB was good as it sometimes played the gameplay music, albeit non-stop.
    Thanks everybody for you help.
     
    #54

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