• We have upgaded to the latest version of XenForum and the process finished without any errors!!!! Enjoy the new forum!

tz issues

Weaser13

Member
Mar 16, 2015
30
4
8
51
Port Dover, Ontario
Hopefully someone with experience with tz or other wpc games can shed some light on issues im having.
Im rebuilding the flippers and have noticed the bottom left flipper only has 1 wire each on the eos switch. 1 black 1 orange while all others have the 3 wires, 1 black and 2 orange together. There is no sign of the other orange wire, that may have gone astray. It seems to work fine and i dont get any eos switch errors.

I also have some pf light problems. The shoot again light is always lit. I also have a few lights that come with another lamp in the series. When i test, a certain lamp, multiple lights will light up. Ive done some reading on this, and dont totally understand where to start. Any help here would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks
 

Weaser13

Member
Mar 16, 2015
30
4
8
51
Port Dover, Ontario
I may have answered my own first question. According to a schematic i found the orange wires on the eos switchs are grounds. Not sure why 3 of them have 2 orange and the other has only one. It look like the schematic shows only one orange wire for all.
 

dnewman

Active Member
Oct 29, 2013
282
83
28
Newmarket
That's wild! I'm having exactly the same lighting issue with my TZ! I get a ghost-lighting, for lack of a better term, in another light in the particular column of the matrix.

I'd appreciate any help with this too!
 

Menace

Well-Known Member
Staff member
Nov 14, 2012
2,440
255
83
Santiago de Aurora
The lamp issues you guys are having are bad lamp matrix transistors. Sounds like one is locked on causing the shoot again insert to always be lit. The double lit inserts could be due to this one bad transistor but could also be another bad one in the matrix. Use your DMM and test all of the transistors in the lower right corner of your driver PCB to find the culprit. (If my memory serves correct all the lamp transistors are TIP107)

D
 

dnewman

Active Member
Oct 29, 2013
282
83
28
Newmarket
Thanks Doug! I'm going to go whip out the DMM and test them... Your help is always much appreciated!
 

dnewman

Active Member
Oct 29, 2013
282
83
28
Newmarket
Okay, so I took the driver PCB out of the machine, and tested the Q91-Q98 transistors (all are TIP107's), and to my untrained eye, it doesn't look like any one of them is very far off par.

Thoughts?
 

Attachments

  • TIP107 Transistor Test.jpg
    TIP107 Transistor Test.jpg
    87.9 KB · Views: 9

Menace

Well-Known Member
Staff member
Nov 14, 2012
2,440
255
83
Santiago de Aurora
In the diode/buzz setting try putting one lead on TP8 and the other on each tab of the transistor. If you get a constant buzz that transistor is bad. If they all still test good, you could have an issue upstream at U19 or U18, or even further up the chain. Could also be an issue with the ribbon cable or the ASIC needs reseating.

Everytime I've seen controlled lamps presenting this behavior it's always been a bad transistor though.

D
 

dnewman

Active Member
Oct 29, 2013
282
83
28
Newmarket
Thanks again for your help Doug!

I attached the negative lead to TP8, and used the positive lead on each point of the transistors. They all behaved the same, however, on each one, I got a constant beep on the emitter tab. Reversing the positive and negative, I got constant beep on all the the emitter tabs as well.

I trust it's unlikely that all the transistors are bad?


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 

Menace

Well-Known Member
Staff member
Nov 14, 2012
2,440
255
83
Santiago de Aurora
Yeah, you only need to check against the main housing tab (collector). The emitter lead would be connected directly to the 18V buss which is why you're seeing the "short" when measuring it across the test point.

If you have a logic probe you can start to check the data being sent from the MPU to the failing sections of the lamp matrix to try and find where the data is being corrupted. Alternatively, you could try reseating the ASIC on the MPU and reseating the ribbon cable to the driver PCB as well. Those are pretty simple to do and might clear things up. I had a clients T2 where the GI wasn't behaving correctly and reseating the ASIC solved the problem.

D
 

dnewman

Active Member
Oct 29, 2013
282
83
28
Newmarket
If the main housing tab is the metal tab with the hole in it, I tested across that and TP8, and got a single beep, but no continuing beep.

Does it have to be in the game, connected, or is it okay to test it removed, on the bench.

I don't have a logic probe... Any recommendations?


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 

Menace

Well-Known Member
Staff member
Nov 14, 2012
2,440
255
83
Santiago de Aurora
On the bench is fine, and it's only bad if you get a continuous tone when testing to the main tab.

Logic probes are pretty standard, just graby anyone at Sayal next time you're there.

D
 

dnewman

Active Member
Oct 29, 2013
282
83
28
Newmarket
I reinstalled the board in the game and re-seated all the ribbon cables and all connectors, but the issue persists.

Here's what the lighting issue looks like:



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

Menace

Well-Known Member
Staff member
Nov 14, 2012
2,440
255
83
Santiago de Aurora
Do you have the manual / lamp matrix chart? If not get it, if so check to see if all of your lamp issues have any correlation. On the same row or coloumn? If you can narrow that down you can begin to troubleshoot things better as it will give you specific drive transistors to look at, and then you can use the schematics to work your way back up the chain from there.

D