• We have upgaded to the latest version of XenForum and the process finished without any errors!!!! Enjoy the new forum!

Williams Blackout

Rascal

Active Member
Sep 20, 2015
470
93
28
55
nova scotia, canada
I just picked up a dysfunctional Williams Blackout. I'm still a novice when it comes to repairs, so any help to get started with this one would be appreciated.
Main issue to start with is, when you press start it cycles through kick-out of balls till it reaches all 3 and ends the game. The flippers work briefly till game is over while cycling kick-out. I just set her up and this is what I have to start with. All fuses look good, put new batteries in, and re-seated all wire harnesses.

What would be the best place to start.
 

Rascal

Active Member
Sep 20, 2015
470
93
28
55
nova scotia, canada
I bought it with issues. A couple times I got it to not end the game and I see I have a couple pop bumpers that are dead. Pretty neat game for an oldie. The playfield is certainly lighter than the newer pins.
 

websherpa

Active Member
Feb 10, 2013
281
54
28
60
Waterdown, ON
Williams System 6 generally need a complete overhaul, re-built power supply and intermittent issues are often caused by the CPU / Driver Board interconnects (which are notorious for getting solder breaks and worn pins), re-seat chips and sometimes their sockets need to be replaced. Battery leaks and acid damage are common too. Many of the capacitors are of such an age as to need replacing. Edge connectors fail due to vibration / heat solder breaks and need re-soldering and sometimes replacement.

System 6 are great machines to learn solid state pinball restoration from (which is my main interest AND how I got started) but you need to decide if that learning curve, supply purchase and electronics skill and toolset is for you. If not, is there a local hobbiest or repair guy that might take it on?

The defacto pinball rebuild resource pinrepair.com no longer covers System 6, but there are other online resources (this one contains substantially the same info - it was one of the original authors for the majority of that section of pinrepair.com) : http://pinball.flippers.info/system6resources.asp

This: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guide-to-bulletproofing-williams-system-6

Here: http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Williams_System_3_-_7

And there is a good repository on Firepower repair out there (that I have lost track of) that is helpful for component layourt schematics if you aren't buying schematics for it.

Continued repair resources are available from Clay Harrell (of pinrepair.com) by donation (he is the Pinball Ninja and from whom I mainly learned): http://www.pinrepair.com/donate/

Hope this helps.
 

Rascal

Active Member
Sep 20, 2015
470
93
28
55
nova scotia, canada
She is a project indeed. I will suffer through the electrical work, but I much sooner do the art work repair. Thanks for the info, at this point I need to start going through everything and maybe someday she will work properly again. It was a steal for $350, so working or not she was coming home with me. As a side note, the seller maintained the original deal even though he was bombarded with buyers offering more money. Its a tough market in my neck of the woods and you need to be very fast to get a good deal. In this case I happened to hit Kijiji at the right time (first viewer) and it was a local guy in a direction I was going that day. My lucky day. The little bit I had it working makes me appreciate the older pins, and it isn't all about the bling. Now I need to track down some parts.
 

websherpa

Active Member
Feb 10, 2013
281
54
28
60
Waterdown, ON
Good catch (I like Blackout, and all System 6). You have quite the project, but restoring a System 6 isn't too difficult and in the process you'll learn most everything you need to know.

I have to laugh when someone calls a solid state pin an "older pin." To me an "older pin" is a flipperless bingo or bagatelle (I have a Baffle Ball). lol Babies!
 

Rascal

Active Member
Sep 20, 2015
470
93
28
55
nova scotia, canada
I found some burnt out diodes to start with. I would be interested in buying parts from you if you have stock of the electronic parts I may need?
 

Rascal

Active Member
Sep 20, 2015
470
93
28
55
nova scotia, canada
Sorry! I'm no longer selling parts.
No problem on the parts. One thing about the old playfield that I have issue with is that many of the colored inserts have a spooned or cupped effect I assume from age. I would love to have an overlay and new inserts, or a replacement playfield (which seems like much less work), but I am doubtful they are still available.
I should focus on getting her working properly first. Lucky the previous own had the complete manual and schematics. Now all I need is more free time. Thank for your assistance.
 

websherpa

Active Member
Feb 10, 2013
281
54
28
60
Waterdown, ON
The first order of business for me on System 6 before I even turn them on is to always:

1. Test the existing fuses both for continuity and value (pin operators tended to do half-asssed fixes on the spot to squeeze out a few more quarters for minimal effort - remember pinballs of that era were built to be "throw aways" - they were meant to make money in their first popular run and then be junked and I add two extra fuses to protect the general illumination at the bridge rectifier for safety,
2 upgrade the power supply with new caps and other parts,
3. lower the high voltage a little to the displays to help preserve them,
4. Test all of the transistors, diodes and coil resistances and inspect all of the coils and switches to see if I can detect any existing faults ((often hinted at by the fuse condition),
5. Fix any battery acid and resolder all edge connectors and pins and replace those with obvious wear / looseness / defect,
6. Move the batteries to a remote holder with a reverse current protection diode,
7. Judiciously plug in and test each circuit board (turning off between connections) in the backbox in sequence so as not to blow up anything and test voltages,
8. Tighten all switch packs,
9. Test all switches lights and solenoids,
10. DO a little play testing to see if I can break anything, or if any coils are weak or switches obviously out,
11. Clean all lights, inserts, and resleeve solenoids, clean them, replace warn parts,
12. Remove (and clean )all plastics and rubbers.
13. Clean and strip playfield and do any playfield touch-ups, replace any targets, broken plastics, etc.
14. Clean underplayfield wire looms, cabinet, etc.
15. Re-clear any touchups. Re-wax playfield.
13. Replace all rubbers and add washer protectors for plastics in judicious spots.
14. Re-test and adjust flippers
15. Replace lights (always replace backglass lights with #47 or LED), or add leds throughout depending on machine and who is having the work done
15. Clean or replace glass.
16. Touch-up and seal backglass if it is flaking.

By this point I am both thoroughly satisfied and bored with the machine, and it purrs like a kitten and either goes back to its original owner (I rarely do them now as it takes so long and I have other employment and hobbies), or goes back into my collection if it's a keeper, or gets sold (although I haven't bought or sold anything in a LONG time).

You need to do your research.

Regarding INSERTS. Insert restoration has been covered a 100 ways to Sunday online in the last 15 years. Plastic / wood shrinks and swells as it's heated and eventually separate and the plastic at the top sinks due to heat and ball wear/weight.

I generally remove, reseat and reglue loose inserts at an even edge level with the playfield. Sometimes I leave it there (cupping at this age is "character") but if it truly affects playability (it has minimal effect), I will fill the cups with CA glue (the more viscous clear crazy glue stuff you can get at RC hobby shops, sometimes I have used water-based polyurethane, but it takes a lot longer to dry) as, if you're careful, it will flow and lay flat. Some people, after regluing and cleaning, and touching up the playfield will have it re-cleared with either a rattle can waterbased clear (that doesn't yellow but takes a month to dry) or automotive epoxy clears.

You can get away with doing only the necessary steps above to get a machine working, but if you aren't thorough on the electronic and mechanics side, you will be continuously fixing the machine AND guaranteed something will break in the middle of your pinball debut party.