Backglass flaking repair

[Luckydogg420]

I'm looking for a little advice on how to fix this minor problem and prevent it from getting any worse. From what I've read it seems that the best method is to use Krylon Triple Thick.

Cover the display areas with painters tape, spray a thick coating of Triple Thick onto the backside of the entire backglass and cover with Seran Wrap, weight it down with phone books and let it sit for a couple days to dry. Remove Saran Wrap and tape carefully, and your done.

Has anyone tried this? Any pointers?






I'm not missing any artwork, there's just sections that have cracked and lifted off the glass. One large piece has broke free from the rest and it might get super glued back in place before I spray paint the Triple Thick on. Another tip that I saw was to use bamboo skewers to push down the flaking edges once it has been sprayed to ensure that the artwork lines up before it gets covered in Saran Wrap. Once the Wrap is down they say you can push out any bubbles that linger.

I think I'm ready to do this. Just checking with the pros first.

Also, I'm debating wether to use Tremclad clear or Krylon Triple Thick. I've used the Tremclad product many times before and feel confident using it. (I've used some pretty crappy spray pains in the past and don't want to screw it up)

 

[websherpa]

You may want to attempt to "re-glue" or "tack" the paint first, carefully using superglue from a syringe, carefully push down bubbles and edges (and then Triple Thick it afterwards). Spraying triple thick can "blow" paint flecks away. I've always done it this way (CA glues dry clear and thin version "flows" well under paint and cracks due to capillary action), and you can get good quality in quantity from an air plane modeller's store). For gosh sakes wear disposable gloves (preferably powderless) and work slowly in sections.

Then Triple thick (and saran wrap only if necessary due to more bubbling). I've only used Triple Thick with good results. Make sure that the Triple Thick is dry before removing the Saran Wrap.

Also, you don't need to tape display areas, and it may end up pulling up back glass paint when you remove it (although an x-acto may be your friend here). You can also just lay a piece of card stock cut oversize with a little weight on it to form a shield. Remove it carefully wet. It is quite possible to "scrape" off the dried clear in the display areas carefully with a fresh one-sided razor blade. Patience and a stead hand are your friends here.

I'm not an expert, but I've restored 4 or 5 back glasses this way without major incident. I learned the technique from Clay the "pinball ninja master" here: http://www.pinrepair.com/restore/index1.htm#bg

Hope this helps!