Thanks MrMikeman.
I'll go thru all of the switches on that row one at a time and see what I can find.
I'll go thru all of the switches on that row one at a time and see what I can find.
#13 STTNG Tie Back Mod *BEST WAY*
- Thread starter Menace
- Start date
Just running into the same issue - where/how did you got/fix it?
Any details like before showing the solution would be highly appreciated, heap thanks in advance!
Honestly I haven't looked at it further yet.
The game is at my wifes place out of town and she has been away for months working on a cruise line so I haven't been
back there to complete my diagnosis.
If you happen to find anything on your end let me know, I will do the same but I won't be back to where my machine is until end of September.
Best Regards;
John
The game is at my wifes place out of town and she has been away for months working on a cruise line so I haven't been
back there to complete my diagnosis.
If you happen to find anything on your end let me know, I will do the same but I won't be back to where my machine is until end of September.
Best Regards;
John
Hello, I am new to repairing pinball so I may have made a mistake somewhere along the way. My question is though, if I have seized a diverter coil, at this point multiple coils, has it cause damaged to transistors or in other areas that would cause the tie back not to work after completing the mod?
I have researching why my coil seized I found this thread. I completed the mod and replaced the burnt fuse. After restarting the game the coil seized again. Any help would be appreciated.
I have researching why my coil seized I found this thread. I completed the mod and replaced the burnt fuse. After restarting the game the coil seized again. Any help would be appreciated.
You likely have AT LEAST a failed transistor for that coil. Shorts sometimes take out other electronics upstream of that transistor. It really depends on which coil though. I suggest you go on Pinside in the STTNG owners thread and ask there. You will have to be quite a bit more specific on your issue if you want assistance. What happened and when. What you did to attempt repair. And what is happening now - is only 1 coil turning on with power or more? etc.
Ok I can do that. Its always the same coil that burns up. It is the one the upper diverter coil when the table is flipped up. One day while playing it just seized up causing balls to plunge, not divert, then shoot out the cannon. when I looked under the playfield I saw the coil was burnt and seized. In the back box I found a burnt fuse. I looked online and found it was most likely the tie back. I did the tieback mod associated with this thread. I also replaced the coil and fuse. After turning on the game. It locks the ball once but after that it began to smoke from under the playfield. The coil was seized again and the fuse was burnt again.
I will bring this issue to pinside.
I will bring this issue to pinside.
Also, when fixing coils, you don't just turn on the machine and hope for the best. You leave the pf UP so you can see/hear what's going on. THEN you turn on the machine and leave your hand on the power switch so you can turn it off right a away if you see or hear a coil energize. This not only saves you money (coils/fuses/etc) but more importantly prevents aggravating problems or causing additional damage.
Once you are happy that you won't burn down the game, then you can go into coil test and check them individually. Yes it's hard to see the DMD with the PF up but I'm sure you can manage. Once all coils seem to be working as they should, turn off the power, lower the pf, load the balls, and power on again (glass off so you can hear). You should STILL be listening for locked on coils and be ready to switch the game off quickly. Be aware that the diverters will energize while the game pre-loads the 3 balls in the VUKs. Anything more than 2-3 seconds is concerning.
Once you are happy that you won't burn down the game, then you can go into coil test and check them individually. Yes it's hard to see the DMD with the PF up but I'm sure you can manage. Once all coils seem to be working as they should, turn off the power, lower the pf, load the balls, and power on again (glass off so you can hear). You should STILL be listening for locked on coils and be ready to switch the game off quickly. Be aware that the diverters will energize while the game pre-loads the 3 balls in the VUKs. Anything more than 2-3 seconds is concerning.
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