Bally Lost World Playfield Clearcoat

[eh97ac]

Finally got to finish a NOS Lost World playfield I picked up this summer. Here is the pf, notice the bad red insert on the left side. Supposedly, this was in the trash bin at the Bally factory but an operator was allowed to have it during a visit (1980's visit).


Here I have replaced the insert and knocked the playfield down with 600 grit.



Here is the pf after a mist coat, eye dropper touch ups and a heavy coat. I used the PPG Omni line


Final clear coat applied after sanding and fixing a few low spots. I then sanded from 1000 up to 2000 and buffed it out using M101 from Meguiars. Still have to finalize buffing and then let it sit for the winter to harden up.

 

[WARLOCK]

That looks fantastic Grant! Super save from the bin from that operator. Nice work!

 

[Seven]

Ohhh. Shiny.

That looks really nice.

 

[eh97ac]

Thanks guys.
I learned a lot and feel very comfortable with the process now but I'm not sure it's worth the hassle to clear at home. Between the wrong environment, safety gear, tools and the looming although slim possibility of breathing this stuff...not really sure. I'd prefer paying someone to do this, even if they just clear and I take care of the the rest.

 

[Jays]

Really nice job. I am unfamiliar with clear coating but do you really need to let it sit for the winter to harden up?

 

[eh97ac]

Usually 90 days to harden up. CPR asks for at least 30 days. From what I read playfield pieces can sink into the clearcoat if it hasn't hardened properly.

 

[ShootAgain]

Nice job!

 

[eh97ac]

Adding to the PF thread. I have been intrigued by the new rattle can scene developing of late and thought I would give it a try.

Sanded from 80 to 220, primed and then went to work with Molotow and Ironlak cans. The base yellow and detail red are from the Molotow line up and the purple from Ironlak.

Application is a breeze and really the only thing to be aware of is switching between brands in regards to nozzle tips. For the body, I will buy the same style nozzle for all the cans instead of swapping them and risking contamination.

Here are some pics with a layer of clear to be added still. Shout out to Jeff @ Pinball Pimp who got the stencils done for me!

 

[DRANO]

Looks great dude!

I'll bet those stencils peeled away great from the Molotow/Ironlak paints. The Ironlak nozzle is great for large area coverage while the Molotow is good for detail shooting (on stencils). I've purchased different nozzles for Molotow at the store but they still don't seem to shoot as nice as the Ironlak. So I just wipe an old one clean with some goof off if I'm swapping them and then spray for a couple of seconds to clean it out.


I'm not deviating from these products again. Hopefully if more people use them that will ensure these stores keep good stock on hand.

 

[eh97ac]

Yup, once I finish spraying, I peel after 10 mins.....buttery smooth. Gotta say that I went a little heavy on the purple due to the Ironlak nozzle output. I had to wait almost 20 mins because it went on so heavy.

 

[eh97ac]

Anyone thinking of spraying a cab should go for it. With Pimp stencils and Ironlka/Molotow it's as easy as pie. I did a Centaur cab over one weekend.

 

[spiroagnew]

Looks great!

Sent from my SM-G920W8 using Tapatalk

 

[luch]

very nice !

 

[stiffler4444]

wow, looks great

 

[slither]

Thats very nice , great job..

 

[Menace]

OMG I seriously need to get my C2 into the C1 donor cab... these pics make me drool!

Nice work.

D

 

[eh97ac]

With a day off and good weather I finished up the body.

 

[eh97ac]

So 4 years and 2 kids later, I finally finished this game. Lots of new shiny parts and nifty little mods, I'm pretty happy with the way it turned out.

 

[Fleetwood mIkea]

Looks unbelievable! Great job!

 

[MahoSands]

Looks new! Great job.