BOPP LED's and Sound

[CJBob]

This hardly counts as a project, but it's my first!

Let's say I now have a Bobby Orr Powerplay with very nice backglass and I want to switch out the old bulbs to LED's. My assumption is this will reduce the heat and keep the backglass in good shape as well as get me started with something small.

While I have the glass off I want to change some settings, for example a free game is awarded at 80,000 which is too low.

How do I know which LED's to buy? I do have the manual.

Also I'd like to dampen the sound a bit. I don't want to turn it off, but it's pretty loud and I want to be able to play while others in the house are sleeping. Suggestions on this?

Thanks guys.

 

[DRANO]

Having the free game set low is probably a workaround for not having to manually add credits all the time. I'd leave it.
Who cares if you get a free game in a home environment anyway? Not like you're paying to play

LEDs are fine in these older games AFAIK. I've used them on EMs too. Try to get warm white ones to retain a bit of that classic incandescent look. Comet sells a great frosted GI bulb for this application.

Does the game not have a volume control? Or, is it chimes? I can't recall what BOPP has.
If chimes, there is a way to muffle them using various media between the strike plates and knockers. If it''s anything like a gottlieb chime unit, you can tighten down the stirke plates on their rubber mounts to reduce the amount that the sound rings out. Imagine placing your hand on a xylophone while striking it.

 

[CJBob]

Thanks Drano, how am I going to pay for the machine if my friends are getting free games

Actually I wanted to change it only because it's really loud, it's good if I can get it a bit quieter.

 

[DRANO]

Bob,
One other thing to consider would be to swap out the standard 44 bulbs for 47s. They are substatially cooler than the 44 and will retain the nice incandescent quality that most people like on these vintage pins. If the game has been shopped and done up already, you may want to check if this has already been done. The bulb should be marked/stamped at its base.
You'll have to decide for yourself if the LEDs look right in a game of this vintage.

 

[WARLOCK]

Bob,
Your BOPP has been shopped out already (rubbered, waxed and all new bulbs) and all the bulbs in the backbox are already 47s that swapped out the 44 originals to reduce any further backglass burn. Add LED's if you want, and Comet is the new LED of choice around these parts.
BOPP has a chime unit for sound (as Drano mentioned) and there are strategies to reduce or "muffle" that sound as Drano indicated.
Oh, and if you are a decent player, then 80,000 for replay is low for you, but may not be for your guests.
People love realizing they were awarded a free game, but you may need to raise it for individual play.

 

[WARLOCK]

FYI - Here is what Sparky did to shop this pin out and get it ready for you. Great work Ian.
8 connectors repinned
Cleaned throughout pf waxed
New decal on coindoor
All bulbs changed
A lot of new rubber
New ball
New leg bolts
New backbox bolts
Recent legs (look awesome)
Power supply gone over
Pins resoldered on display #3 (was flickering a bit, all good now)
Display #4 replaced with a super-nice one
All switches adjusted
All shrink-wrapped
And... Bobby Orr commemorative figurine (in a rare-as-sh*t Blackhawks jersey!!) Included!!
Not mint, but pretty much as good as it gets for an all original machine!

 

[CJBob]

Drano and Warlock, thanks, I've spent more time playing pinball the last 2 nights than the previous 2 years. It's been great.

One minor issue and I'm not sure how to address it. Several times with the top target down on the right the ball is getting stuck in the empty target spot, hopefully you can see it on the link here:

http://instagr.am/p/wwBNaaJ_lQ/
I'm not sure if I need to adjust the drop targets so they are a bit further forward on the board, or perhaps I can adjust the rubber down a bit? It's not a problem if you can shake it off (sorry Taylor Swift), but this sucker is really stuck! I've had to take the glass off each time to get it.

Cheers,

Bob

 

[Vengeance]

There is an adjustment to make the drop targets more flush with the PF.

If you look at the assembly, there should be something that can raise the resting position of the drop target.

Adjust it so the target is more flush with the PF and the ball will stop getting stuck.

 

[DRANO]

You don't want to bring the target forward. It only sits forward in the up position. Height adjustment is certainly the first thing to try.
I would also look at the pitch of the game. If you have enough of an angle on the playfield, gravity tends to resolve most issues. Also make sure it's not leaning to thr right and check your playfield is level left to right; both at the top and bottom for consistency... then adjust your leg levelers as necessary.
Pitch on a game like this should be around 6 degrees I would suspect.

 

[CJBob]

If chimes, there is a way to muffle them using various media between the strike plates and knockers. If it''s anything like a gottlieb chime unit, you can tighten down the stirke plates on their rubber mounts to reduce the amount that the sound rings out. Imagine placing your hand on a xylophone while striking it.

I've tried tightening the nuts on the top of the chimes and this and it doesn't appear to be making any difference, should I try adding additional / wider rubber or perhaps newer more flexible rubber to have more effect?

 

[DRANO]

I'm not very familiar with the bally chime unit, but anything you can do to tighten up the strike plates and prevent excess vibration will probably help reduce the sound. You may also be able to simply place something on top of the plates to achieve this. Just keep in mind they will vibrate, so whatever you use would have to be secured tightly.

 

[in2pin]

Bob

Sorry to hear that you are already having to deal with issues with your machine. Really makes me think twice about pulling the trigger on a machine. Hope you are able to solve the issue quickly.

Dave

 

[FastEd]

I think this is the nature of the hobby. You have to be comfortable with tinkering a bit. Having said that, someone told me that for my first pin, spend a bit more and get a machine that works really well vs something that might require some work.

Some of these machines are more than 20 years old. Things can get loose during moving etc.

Lots of knowledgeable people on here to help out if you have issues.

 

[CJBob]

Thanks Dave, the ball isn't getting stuck very often so I haven't look at that yet. I did break a drop target on the BOPP so I'm going to order new ones including a couple of spares today. When I attempt to install the new drop targets on the left if I can figure out the adjustments I'll work on the stuck ball on the right. Overall the BOPP is a lot of fun to play, I love the 2 sets of drop targets and the saucer at the top meaning there is always a challenging shot available. The center post allows you to hold the ball at times and line up shots. I'd never played the game before but from watching the videos I thought I would enjoy it and I am.

The 8Ball hasn't had any problems, but there are a few things I need to look into to make it more fun to play. The LED's in the back glass are fine, but some of the LED's on the playfield are too bright and shine in your eyes when playing. Something I need to switch out. Also the 5 and 6 targets are too difficult to set off, sometimes you hit them but they don't register. I need to look into whether the contacts just need to be cleaned or if there is an adjustment required. I also may adjust the pitch of the game to see if this helps make the shots easier. Right now this game feels like there is too much luck and little skill. I left it the last few days because I had a lot of people over and didn't want to break it

Definitely some work but the look on my family and friend's faces when they arrived in the basement and the fun we had the last few days makes it worth it. I'm already looking into another corner of the room and thinking 'if I move that bar fridge I might be able to squeeze in a 3rd machine'.

 

[sylvain]

The 8Ball hasn't had any problems, but ... the 5 and 6 targets are too difficult to set off, sometimes you hit them but they don't register. I need to look into whether the contacts just need to be cleaned or if there is an adjustment required.

In addition to target switch cleanliness (only clean with a business card, not a file) and gapping,
check if there is a small 0.05 uF small disc capacitor across the targets lugs on those 5 & 6 targets under the playfield.

Those old Bally games often have those caps to make the MPU detect a very short switch closure.
However these old original small disc caps on those old Bally games often are bad now (leaking),
causing the game to think the switch is always on (even though it is not).
Older operators often clipped-out these 'bad' capacitors, removing the 'always seen as ON switch'
for a quick repair... But now the MPU would not detect a short switch closure without the cap....

Solution - check for cap presence, confirm in the switch test mode that there are no stuck switch,
and if needed, install new 0.05 uF disc capacitors across the switch(es) where original caps were
(you can confirm with the game manual/schematic which switch is supposed to have such capacitor).

- Sylvain.

 

[CJBob]

Thanks Sylvain, I'm not familiar with a lot of the terms and pieces you are describing so I'll start with the business card and if that doesn't do the trick I will come back to this thread later.

The good news is Starburst had the drop target I needed for the BOPP in stock so I'll see if I can get that replaced tonight.

 

[sylvain]

Here's a picture of such a 0.05 uF disc capacitor with one of its legs clipped (green part left)
(from the web, from Clay's original Pinball Repair):