Building a Dream

[Vengeance]

Still lots to do, but the offical break ground date right now is Aug 10th. That is when the company coming in to do all the excavation will be starting.

A week for that and then the building will start going up which I've been told takes a month.

So Mid to end of Sept the building should be standing, then I've got to get to work on the wiring.

My understanding is it has to go Electrical, Insulation, then Heat. All the wiring needs to be in place since I'm going with spray foam for the insulation and having to break into the foam to run wires kinda defeats the purpose.

I'm really not to worried about the heat, the spray foam will make a big difference on keeping heat in during the winter and heat out during the summer.

 

[Slam_Tilt]

I'm really not to worried about the heat, the spray foam will make a big difference on keeping heat in during the winter and heat out during the summer.

But wouldn't the heat generated by the machines and bodies be kept insulated inside? I think on those hot, humid days that building is going to be roasting even with the doors open.

 

[Vengeance]

But wouldn't the heat generated by the machines and bodies be kept insulated inside? I think on those hot, humid days that building is going to be roasting even with the doors open.

It's a 10ft wall. with 15 feet to the peek, and the rafters are going to be open. With windows and garage doors open out in the country it shouldn't be an issue.

The way I look at it is, it's going to be 100X better then what my current basement is where you lock 30 dudes in a hot basement with no windows and 7 ft celings.

 

[Chris Bardon]

You can always add some fans afterwards. I'd be more worried about keeping garage doors open and keeping bugs and other wildlife out. Nothing like getting eaten alive by mosquitoes while trying to play pinball

 

[Vengeance]

You can always add some fans afterwards. I'd be more worried about keeping garage doors open and keeping bugs and other wildlife out. Nothing like getting eaten alive by mosquitoes while trying to play pinball

You can get screens for garage doors

 

[Chris Bardon]

You can get screens for garage doors

I never knew those existed. That's a good idea.

 

[luch]

You can get screens for garage doors

that people will walk into !

 

[CJBob]

...my current basement is where you lock 30 dudes in a hot basement with no windows and 7 ft celings.

Wow, that sure could be taken out of context...

 

[dnewman]

I know you get suggestions from everyone, Adam, but I would implore you to install an electrical panel sufficiently large enough to add A/C if you find you need it down the road. From what an electrician friend tells me, it's not much more expensive to add a larger service panel to accommodate possible future needs, however, it is significantly expensive to install a panel that only meets your estimated needs and then have to re-install a larger one. At least that way you keep your options open if you find the heat and humidity intolerable.

Screens generally reduce airflow by 50% or more. And you know Luch would forget it's there and walk right though it!

Chris makes a good point about the mosquitoes too! Mosquitoes are attracted to warm, moist, carbon dioxide. You live on a flood-plain (or in entomological terms: a mosquito nursery ). Adding 40 - 50 carbon dioxide spewing pinballers in a pinball machine warmed building with large open doors is just ringing the dinner bell! On a warm, still Monday with no breeze, no one would make it out alive!

http://www.cbc.ca/news/canada/nova-...your-carbon-dioxide-say-researchers-1.3162441

That said, I think what you are building is really awesome, and really appreciate the efforts you are going through for this hobby!

 

[Vengeance]

I don't have AC in my house, not gonna put in the building, the end.

 

[websherpa]

Wow, that sure could be taken out of context...

I've been to clubs like that. ;-)

 

[Beafraid]

My understanding is it has to go Electrical, Insulation, then Heat. All the wiring needs to be in place since I'm going with spray foam for the insulation and having to break into the foam to run wires kinda defeats the purpose.

When i did my basement i moved the framing out from the wall an extra inch or more. That way i could spray foam then do the electrical afterward. I removed all the insulation the builder had put up and did the framing when it was getting cold. I wasnt planning on doing more to the basement for a bit so i needed the insulation in before it got cold. That allowed me to figure out where i needed things without rushing the electrical for the spray foam.

 

[Vengeance]

I'm not planning to frame the walls since I have no intention of hanging drywall. I guess I could do the electrical after insulation since I'm planning to run it all through the celing with conduit though.

Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk

 

[Menace]

If you're not framing the walls are you just planning to do flex electrical drops from the rafters? (like one every 4 feet)

D

 

[Vengeance]

If you're not framing the walls are you just planning to do flex electrical drops from the rafters? (like one every 4 feet)

D

Basically, I'll cut a 2x4 to the length I want, attach it to the rafters, run the line down on that, attach the box and connect the outlets.

 

[Vengeance]

The only other thing I was thinking about was possibly seeing if I could make some kind of make shift scaffolding since the ceilings are 10ft high, don't really want to be up and down on a ladder over and over again.

**EDIT**

Well that was easier to figure out then I thought:

http://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/metaltech-deluxe-mini-scaffold-0611040p.html#.VbfPrflVhBc

 

[Menace]

Basically, I'll cut a 2x4 to the length I want, attach it to the rafters, run the line down on that, attach the box and connect the outlets.

Make sure that meets code before you bank on it...

If you are doing conduit in the rafters just install a device box every 4 feet and then install a flex cable drop with strain relief and your outlet box on the other end. This way it's flexible and gives you a lot more leeway/options down the road.

D

 

[Vengeance]

Make sure that meets code before you bank on it...

If you are doing conduit in the rafters just install a device box every 4 feet and then install a flex cable drop with strain relief and your outlet box on the other end. This way it's flexible and gives you a lot more leeway/options down the road.

D

Yea I'm going to talk to the electrician once I find one on what I can and can't do.

Got an example? I can't visualize what your saying.

 

[Menace]

That's what I'm talking about. And you can install whatever length of cable you want, make it longer than you need and coil it up just incase down the road you need a bit more length for something unforseen. This is how we setup most of my Dad's mfg facilities back in the day.

And even though this pic only shows a single end outlet, you can install a metal quad box instead and drop 4 outlets in it.

d

 

[Vengeance]

That's what I'm talking about. And you can install whatever length of cable you want, make it longer than you need and coil it up just incase down the road you need a bit more length for something unforseen. This is how we setup most of my Dad's mfg facilities back in the day.

And even though this pic only shows a single end outlet, you can install a metal quad box instead and drop 4 outlets in it.

d

Doing that is going to come down to expense, if I'm allowed to do what I'm thinking, I assume it would be cheaper then something as fancy as that.

I may throw a few in for the workshop area but where games are going to be static Id be less concerned with flexibility.