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Gottlieb vs Bally Drop Targets

CJBob

Active Member
Nov 24, 2014
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Mississauga
I decided to turn on my 4 games and move from game to game after each ball just to see what it was like.

While doing this I noticed that on Joker Poker if I just brush the drop targets they go down, but on my Bally's (Powerplay, Playboy, Mata Hari) it's possible to hammer the targets and sometimes they still stand.

Is this just the way my machines are set up or in fact is there a real difference between the systems?
 

Menace

Well-Known Member
Staff member
Nov 14, 2012
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Santiago de Aurora
What you are experiencing with the Bally targets is what we call "bricking", and it's an unfortunate problem that is inherent to the design. It's been a hot topic for EVER, and there really isn't much you can do about it. (at least not that I'm aware of)

D
 
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CJBob

Active Member
Nov 24, 2014
354
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Mississauga
Thanks, Mata Hari behaves exactly as I remember playing it in the late 70's; sometimes after what I thought was the perfect shot, the targets is still standing there mocking me.

In a way that is part of the fun, but on the other hand JP seems to be a much 'fairer' game in that I get rewarded for good shots and punished for bad.
 

PhilGreg

Member
Nov 28, 2012
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8
On my PP the drops drop if you look at them too hard. Gottlieb Card Whiz the same, Gottlieb Surf Champ they're pretty tough, even after I took the mechs apart and cleaned them up and adjusted them.

Worst one was my Metallica. You had to backhand them or they'd brick most of the time.
 

DRANO

Super Member
Nov 15, 2012
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Mississauga
I hate the bricking on my Centaur. Drives me nuts. It's way more pronounced on games where the targets face the player directly. Anything where the ball can glance the target from the side is pretty good. Centaur's dead-on hard shots are killer for this.

I did read about a fix... but it was pretty involved.
Joe Grenuk posted some stuff on RGP ages ago and there were several things that made it better and finally, one thing that he says fixed it.

First he tried stiffening the targets (especially newer repro ones) that are relatively flexible. A bricked shot essentially flexes the head back far enough that it hits the wood or rubber and it snaps back into place and the notch doesn't slip off and let it fall. He stiffened them by pouring epoxy into the hollow backs of the targets and inserting a nail for rigidity.

Then he shaved a bit of plastic off the little lip that holds it up.

After that he added a 2nd spring (a la Gottlieb). To do this he drilled his bracket to run a metal post across the front of each target and added a 2nd spring to each that attached to this rod (instead of the factory arm). This spring added additional downward and forward force.

Joe then also added some Teflon grease to the wood opening just behind the target to create more 'slip'.

And the easiest of all, he loosened the entire assembly and pushed it as far forward as possible to give the targets more room to fall back and down.

Apparently, all of this improved the issue, but did not resolve it 100%.

Not wanting to give up, he decided to experiment with a variety of different spring setups. He describes how he did a different arrangement for all 4 ORB targets on his Centaur. The one that worked best involved doubling up the original spring so that both springs attached to the same hole in the target and then went down in a tight V shape to the factory rod. One slightly left and the other to the right.
He stated that this setup worked almost flawlessly. Now, I don't know if all of the original modifications he had already done contributed to the success, or if this simple spring fix would have done the trick alone.... but I would be inclined to start with the 2nd spring and then shifting the bank forward before I tackled any of the other ones.

That being said, I'm lazy and my Centaur works fine, so I have not yet been motivated to try any of this.

Good luck!
Hope you can break the "Bally Brick Wall" :D
 
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Menace

Well-Known Member
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Nov 14, 2012
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Santiago de Aurora
Adding that second spring is pretty easy to do if/when you've got the drops out for servicing... definitely going to have to remember this trick.

D
 

WARLOCK

Administrator
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Nov 14, 2012
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The Bluffs, Scarborough
Wow, go Joe Grenuk! Agree that springs first would be a good start. Then shift the mech forward. Then shave the plastic off the lip.
I will be trying those 3 steps in that order on a couple of the Bally's of this era that I have remaining. No wonder I love the Williams more.