Help to hand move a pin to basement

[Cariba]

Folks,
I have Bram stokers Dracula that I need to bring down to my basement (Mississauga, ON), and looking to see if anyone can help or anyone knows of possibly two big guys (I of course I would pay) or small moving company that you would recommend to assist with this . The stairs and landing is tight and I was unable to get a PINBOT down, even using using a appliance dolly, without separating the back box (due to 90 deg turns required and just not enough space) . BUT I was hoping if it is hand carried down and I remove stair railings I would not have to separate the BB for this pin.

Let me know please.
Thanks,

 

[mwong168]

It's not difficult to separate the head on a WPC and I've done it easily 80+ times every time I move a game in and out of my place. I used masking tape and sharpie when I first got into the hobby but after few times I created databases for the different connectors for WPCSYS11, WPC-S, WPC95 so I can print on Avery labels. If you want to swing by my office in Vaughan I can print you labels for BSD so you can peal and stick on each connector. It makes putting head back on much easier and no guessing.



Removing the head also makes the machine lighter to move too. Let me know otherwise good luck!

 

[Cariba]

Yeah...its not so much that its complicated - its that with my luck one connector connection won't work/re-connect or I crack a solder on a PCB board or something and I'm spending hours trying to find issue and solution etc. SO IF I can I would much rather avoid removing the BB. But if I have to I will use your labels - if I can get a printable version I can print on labels that would be great. First I'm gonna take some measurement's and see how tight it is.
Thank you very much.

 

[IVPinball]

It's not difficult to separate the head on a WPC and I've done it easily 80+ times every time I move a game in and out of my place. I used masking tape and sharpie when I first got into the hobby but after few times I created databases for the different connectors for WPCSYS11, WPC-S, WPC95 so I can print on Avery labels. If you want to swing by my office in Vaughan I can print you labels for BSD so you can peal and stick on each connector. It makes putting head back on much easier and no guessing.

View attachment 27099

Removing the head also makes the machine lighter to move too. Let me know otherwise good luck!

That's very cool

 

[mwong168]

Yeah...its not so much that its complicated - its that with my luck one connector connection won't work/re-connect or I crack a solder on a PCB board or something and I'm spending hours trying to find issue and solution etc. SO IF I can I would much rather avoid removing the BB. But if I have to I will use your labels - if I can get a printable version I can print on labels that would be great. First I'm gonna take some measurement's and see how tight it is.
Thank you very much.

I had the same worries as you too but had I not learned to get comfortable removing the head I wouldn't have lasted and still be in the hobby today. When removing a connector just make sure you are grabbing and pulling on the actual connector and not the wires. Especially most of the connectors are IDC they can come out otherwise no big deal to push back in using a flathead screw driver back in.

I've attached a few PDF for connector labels for WPC-S, WPC95 and WPC System 11. Use Avery Label #5260 or else U-Line or Staples has their own equivalent for cheaper.

Template for Avery 5260 Address Labels 1" x 2-5/8" | Avery.com

Free templates for Avery 5260 for Microsoft, Adobe & more. Use Avery Design & Print Online for pre-designed templates to customize and print your project.

www.avery.com

Good luck with your move!

 

[Cariba]

Thank you very much, as it looks more and more that I will be potentially having to separate the back box indeed. Those labels numbers match certain spots and numbers marked on the boards as well? ...as I am not familiar with some of those descriptions.

 

[mwong168]

Your BSD is WPC-S and here are the names I used for each board. Not sure if your game has expander board or not like Roadshow or STTNG so you will need to just use some blank labels and a sharpie to label those. If you not sure take pictures and if you have any "Z" joining connectors I would use sharpie pen to mark entire same side so when you plug it back together you know which side is which.



Also if you can't see or read some of the connector names I would refer to your manual otherwise you might risk mislabeling them leading you to connect to wrong one later when you put head back on. The ones on the bottom of the CPU security board can be a bit hard to read and all look the same. Also note which side each harness comes up as one is grey and one is black. If you reverse them it could affect how much slack you have going to each connector. Make sure you don't get any connectors in backwards especially J101, J102, J103 and J104 unless you want to see some magic smoke

 

[Padre]

If u dont want to take head off which is actually really easy..u wrap pin with 3 moving blankets u can slide it down the stairs slowly on a plank of wood ,cardboard or even by itself then stand it up on the landing and turn it ..should be enough room to turn without dolly and slide down the rest of stairs ..just make sure your sliding on bottom of pin and its wrapped well..moving pads and shrink wrap and a little tape

 

[BOO]

It's not difficult to separate the head on a WPC and I've done it easily 80+ times every time I move a game in and out of my place. I used masking tape and sharpie when I first got into the hobby but after few times I created databases for the different connectors for WPCSYS11, WPC-S, WPC95 so I can print on Avery labels. If you want to swing by my office in Vaughan I can print you labels for BSD so you can peal and stick on each connector. It makes putting head back on much easier and no guessing.

View attachment 27099

Removing the head also makes the machine lighter to move too. Let me know otherwise good luck!

That's a great idea, Mike!

 

[Cariba]

I've purchased the blank labels, was suppose to do the move this weekend but got pushed back by two weekends- let you know how it goes.

Thanks again for the files.

 

[Cariba]

Which ones are the z connectors?

 

[mwong168]

Which ones are the z connectors?

I don't have premade labels for z-connectors and do those manually if there are any in the game. I am not sure if BSD has any but take pictures and label both sides if there are any.

 

[Cariba]

Ok thanks...ive successful moved the pin in to my basement and disconnected the back box and labeled everything. Next will be reconnecting process. I tested the machine when I brought it in before moving down and disconnecting everything- so I know all works well before disconnection. Let's hope all goes well after reconnection. ll let u all know. Thanks again for labels...p.s. I was lucky too as someone had also written the connection number on side of each connector.

 

[Cariba]

Success! Was a bit nerve wrecking, cause I thought something was gonna go wrong for sure with my luck, but I took my time both disconnecting and (purposely as not to rush, I reconnected on another day)...took my time to feed wires and connectors properly and double check everything was connected and in place properly.
Started up good (although for first few seconds the sound wasn't on).

Thanks again for the help AND templates, that did help, knowing what board to plug into made things easier than just looking for a number, of course the shape and length of wires helps too.

I can see where you do that a lot it would be easy, but still something I rather avoid if I can. But you do develop and gain more appreciation for the machine knowing you reconnected it all back up.


Regards,

 

[Cariba]

some pics...

 

[mwong168]

My friends use to laugh at my OCD for labelling all the connectors because the wires do have some memory from being in the same shape for so many years or decades. I figure if you label everything it takes any guess work when putting back together because all it takes is to plug the wrong connector in the wrong place and you will start to see magic smoke. Also great that you took your time and I always double check everything before the first time powering on too.

Congrats on new game and moving it down successfully. I'm sure next time you will do it much faster as you would have learned from last time.

 

[Fleetwood mIkea]

Well done - congrats!!
@mwong168 I’m totally stealing your labelling idea too.

 

[Cariba]

Thanks Mikea, I've learnt a lot from you as well, and your insight is always appreciated.