Original Playfields vs Reproductions?

[CJBob]

What are the general thoughts on original playfields vs reproductions?

http://www.classicplayfields.com/order.html

Does a machine with a reproduction playfield have a lower resale value? In general are they successfully and the games plays like the original?

While we're on the subject how about cabinets? What's the feeling on an original cabinet in great shape for it's age, let's say not Jennifer Lopez great but maybe Valerie Bertanelli ;-) vs. a cabinet that has been restenciled?

My focus is the feel and play of the games, but the look is part of the appeal and just like buying a car the resale value is a consideration even if I can't picture selling it at the time I buy it.

Thanks.

 

[Chris Bardon]

I think the general consensus is that all things being equal, original or NOS is better, but things are rarely equal. Given the choice between a beat up original PF and a good repro, the repro is probably better. Of course, there are cases where reproductions have bad colours etc where you'd want to avoid them, but it seems that CPR is pretty well regarded.

 

[Menace]

One thing to consider with NOS original PF's that do pop up... there's usually a reason the PF never got installed in a game. Sure there was usually extra PF's run at the time of MFG but a number of the NOS PF's that have been sold over the years were actually rejects at the time the game was originally being run for some reason or another. In today's market a lot of the imperfections that would have marked the PF as a reject at the time is completely acceptable now because it's usually much better than whatever is currently in the game at hand.

So... this is a great question. For me I think I'd chose a repro over an original as long as the repro didn't have any major mistakes, as the price point usually turns out to be more affordable.

As for the effect on value, that's totally subjective and will boil down to the buyers preference. Usually swapping in a PF is a losing proposition given the amount of time and care is required to complete the job, so I wouldn't expect to recoup any money. If the game undergoes a complete restoration along with that PF swap, then you're talking a completely different scenario and anyone buying a completely restored game would be paying a premium I would think. (obiously how much would depend on the quality of the work done)

D

 

[DRANO]

Exactly as Chris & Doug stated. As long as the quality of the (licensed) reproduction is good, I don't think that it hurts the value in any way.
Most buyers want their games to play and look great. I've purchased two classic Bally games that each had a new playfield installed. I paid more than I would have for the games than if they'd had original playfields with some wear.

That being said, it's very easy to push a game beyond it's 'value threshold' by trying to replace everything on it.
For example, I did what I consider to be a high-end restoration on a White Water a couple of years ago. If I really wanted to recoup all of my costs I'd have to sell it for north of $6000... and that's without any compensation for my labour, just new parts, modification and materials; so well over $7K otherwise. Now, at the time, and even today, WH2O does not command much more than $3500-$4000 at best.
There is always a market for the high-end game, but it is limited to just a handful of individuals.

The moral of the story is, unless you plan to keep the game a long time or you got the base game for a VERY good price, be careful when considering all of these extras. They may add value, but every game has its ceiling.

 

[Hammerhead]

. . . let's say not Jennifer Lopez great but maybe Valerie Bertanelli ;-) . . .
Thanks.

Valerie Bertinelli all day long

 

[websherpa]

A repro playfield in an old beaten cabinet with scratched plastics is a little like an over-inflated cosmetic surgery ... it looks out of place.

Common sense says that well kept or restored original stock or NOS will have a higher value than repro, but that doesn't always bear out in reality. Beauty and value are mainly in the eye of the beholder in this hobby.

Personally I prefer the character of the originals, even if a little dinged and warn. I really like the occasional carvings (Joni loves Chachi) on the sides of SS and EMs as it gives me a sense of their history and place of original use.

However, I gave up a repro Black Knight playfield that I had acquired from within our group a while ago (I got lazy as it needed to be clear coated first), and now I regret selling it as I really do need to replace the playfield in mine (and repaint the cabinet) - and now I have the space to do it. Hmmm... I can't for the life of me remember who I sold it to...! LOL

 

[CJBob]

Thanks everyone, this helps my understanding a lot. One topic I still don't fully understand is the back glass. Is this the hardest piece to replace (of course it depends on the specific games). Are there reproductions of the back glass as well?

 

[DRANO]

You can get some Bally/Williams glasses still. Marco's will carry the odd one and some are NOS but mostly reproduction.
Translites can also be had fairly easily. It really comes down to which title you're after.

CPR has made glass. SHAY arcade group makes a lot of glass for older Gottlieb and some vintage Williams titles. Mayfair and others are also in that business. Finding what you need can be hit and miss though. I think I've only seen the classic Bally's reproduced by CPR and you have to get on them quick before they sell out.

 

[websherpa]

Old painted backglass, kept exposed to large temperature changes, delaminates and eventually flakes off big time. That's why some people go to lengths to preserve it. If not already delaminating, in theory, it would take an awful long time to delaminate if a backglass were kept in a stable heated environment. In almost all the cases I've seen it's usually these things that start to deteriorate laminated backglass art:

Hot lights
Old glue or foam that cushions the glass
Bars used to hold backglass in place
Barn storage (i.e. usually unheated spaces with large fluctuations in daily and seasonal temperature)
Scratches on edges from handling and vibrations
Loss of paint from cleaning with solvents

If you can restore or preserve a backless with some cracks, fading and maybe only some edge paint missing, they usually hold value as an original (whether kept with the original machine or auctioned off after a repro replacement). But in the case of a badly delaminated backglass; certainly a good repro will bring more value to both the current and subsequent owners. It is not entirely impossible (albeit difficult) to obtain scans from other collectors and print your own backless replacements in the absence of a repro.