STP22NE10L Replacement

[brad808]

I recently got a world poker tour and yesterday while playing I lost the majority of my 50v coils. Looked at the driver board and saw f8 was blown. Tried a new fuse, blew on start up. Checked the coils and transistors in the bank related to f8 and q5 (lower left bank reset) STP22NE10L is shorted. Is the STP22NE10L the best replacement or should I be sourcing something different? I didn't see it on digikey and mouser no longer carries it. See it listed at Marcos so I know I can order them, just not sure if there is a better alternative. Part of the reason I ask is because I see q6 has been replaced with another part# (don't have it off the top of my head but I believe it's a 20N10L). Not sure if the reasoning was functionality or availability.

Thanks [emoji3]

 

[mwong168]

http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=190

That's the replacement you want and see item description for reason

 

[brad808]

Perfect! Thanks that's exactly what I needed to know.

 

[Menace]

See my write-up here about fixing a LOTR.

http://pinballrevolution.com/threads/7-stern-lord-of-the-rings.1695/

D

 

[brad808]

See my write-up here about fixing a LOTR.

http://pinballrevolution.com/threads/7-stern-lord-of-the-rings.1695/

D

Thanks that's nice and informative. I'll try and pull the board tonight to see exactly what I have and which ones have already been messed with.

 

[brad808]

Got my transistors in tonight. This is what the board currently has swapped out

Q15+Q13 = p40nf10l (upper left and lower left flipper) 40amp?
Q14+Q16 = p20n10 (upper right and lower right flipper)
Q6= p20n10 (upper left drop reset)
All working

Probably better to be safe and swap them all for IRL540N? Some of the solder jobs are piss poor and soldered from the top, lifted traces etc so I think I'll probably just pull them all clean up the board and then reinstall the proper replacement.

 

[brad808]

All have been replaced, back together and working. Thanks guys :-D

 

[Allan]

IRF540 is pretty common you can double them up for more current it gets a little crowded but it works. IRFP 250 works fit the centre lead thru the board the 2 outside solder on the top. Thing with mosfets is the gate current is barely a microamp the device turns on with a voltage so its very easy to substitute.

 

[brad808]

IRF540 is pretty common you can double them up for more current it gets a little crowded but it works. IRFP 250 works fit the centre lead thru the board the 2 outside solder on the top. Thing with mosfets is the gate current is barely a microamp the device turns on with a voltage so its very easy to substitute.

I'm curious about this even though they have already been replaced. You recommend the IRF540 but in the post provided by menace he says the IRF540 has potential to lock on and to anyways use IRL540 instead.

 

[Allan]

IRL is stronger the IRF has failed on me but is very common that is why I mentioned doubling them up ,IRFP250 is a monster but it will fit used once on a stubborn problem and still going a year later. Starburst sells P20N10 have had good results with it.

 

[Menace]

Never ever ever use the IRF, regardless if it's more commonly available or not, for the reasons I mentioned in my original post... unless you like to gamble. More often than not these parts will lock on and ruin coils, and burn up PCB traces. Just because a part *CAN* work in a circuit, doesn't mean it should be used. (there are other parts that fall into this category too like the 7402)

D