Tim's Rescue 911 thread
- Thread starter tim.sanderson
- Start date
Sys3 used some funky switches so ringing that switch out between the two contacts might work when you close it, but it may not as it has some circuitry on the switch itself. They were a "smart switch" that apparently never required cleaning or adjusting, and if they were adjusted at any point the piezo film is likely damaged and the switch will need to be replaced. Pinball Resource should have what you need.
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Menace said:
They do have lots of stuff for this machine. I just don't like having to do up a money order to buy stuff.
I took it apart, but could not see anything glaringly obvious that needed fixing/soldering. I'll order one up tomorrow.
Luckydogg420
Member
Ya could try playdium. If they don't have it, they'll order it. Save you shipping and then you don't have to worry about a money order
tim.sanderson said:Menace said:
They do have lots of stuff for this machine. I just don't like having to do up a money order to buy stuff.
I took it apart, but could not see anything glaringly obvious that needed fixing/soldering. I'll order one up tomorrow.
Starburst places orders with PBR quite often, so you could always have them order it up and avoid the money order hassle. The one thing you will find is PBR will be the only source for the majority of parts for your game as they are the rights holder to all things GTB. What you could do to test that switch in the matrix is swap it with another switch in the game, to at least verify it's a physical issue with the switch and not something in the game... just a thought.
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I was thinking of swapping it with the "ADVANCE BONUS' switch. If I can get one from Doug at SB, I'll go that route. (even if it costs a bit more) I'm a big fan of buying/supporting locally for that sort of thing.
tim.sanderson said:
Yup, you can swap both around just to test and verify the switch you're having an issue with is in fact the switch and not something else in the game that is causing the issue.
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A few people have asked me why I haven't updated this thread in a while. I'm glad to say it's because the machine has been playing great for almost 2 weeks!
Thanks to every one here for all the help. (especially Doug!) I think I'm almost ready to look for another project machine. Maybe one that's a little more challenging than this one has been...
Thanks to every one here for all the help. (especially Doug!) I think I'm almost ready to look for another project machine. Maybe one that's a little more challenging than this one has been...
Tim,
Great work but be careful what you ask for. You will more than likely get it.
Lots of pins around, but if you want more challenging fixes, they do exist.
Maybe add a couple pins that work and you can shop/tweak/enjoy first.
Scott
Great work but be careful what you ask for. You will more than likely get it.
Lots of pins around, but if you want more challenging fixes, they do exist.
Maybe add a couple pins that work and you can shop/tweak/enjoy first.
Scott
My home brew sleeve fix held out for about 300 games or so, but gave in the other day. (http://www.multiball.org/2013/06/couple ... -dead.html)
I've ordered some new ones from PinballRes./Playdium, but until I get them, I thought I'd try to chef something up.
There's a video of how my first attempt worked out here:
http://www.multiball.org/2013/06/home-b ... ail-1.html
I've ordered some new ones from PinballRes./Playdium, but until I get them, I thought I'd try to chef something up.
There's a video of how my first attempt worked out here:
http://www.multiball.org/2013/06/home-b ... ail-1.html
I seem to have an issue with a light being stuck on. (It's also seems to be twice as bright.) It's the light that tells you that you're supposed to drop the ball into the upper-right hand side of the playfield. I've recently had to change some fuses, but other than that I haven't really made any changes. Other than this light not turning on and off when it's supposed to, the game seems to play fine.
Could this be a symptom of a more serious problem?
Could this be a symptom of a more serious problem?
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Luckydogg420
Member
Probably a short. Is it a flasher light? Or GI light. If its left on its goi g to get hot quick.
I'd get out the DMM and look for a short somewhere. Constant voltage to the light is going to be a problem that you want to fix
Hey look at the time.... Happy 4:20 :ugeek:
I'd get out the DMM and look for a short somewhere. Constant voltage to the light is going to be a problem that you want to fix
Hey look at the time.... Happy 4:20 :ugeek:
I'll do that. Yes, it's not a flasher, but rather a light that turns on for no more 20 or 30 seconds at a time. I've removed the bulb for now. You don't really need the light to play once you know the modes.Luckydogg420 said:
I'm thinking you've got an issue with the lamp matrix. Find out what lamp this is on your lamp chart and then test all of the other lamps in the associated row / column and see if you notice any other issues. Again this could be tricky to sort out as GTB used the same wonky idea with the lamp matrix as they did the switch matrix, so the switch and lamp strobe lines are shared...
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So I've dug a little deeper into my bulb problem... I traced the A9J15 wires, this is where they go:
The double-brown wire goes to this pin a plug that goes into the main driver board.
The double-yellow wire is traced through the bottom of the playfield, and into this:
My guess is my problem is going to be on the board. If it was one of the yellow wires, it looks like a whole bunch of other things attached to the same point would be affected too. Again, that's a total guess. I'm going to poke around some more, but I'd love to hear other peoples opinions.
The double-brown wire goes to this pin a plug that goes into the main driver board.
The double-yellow wire is traced through the bottom of the playfield, and into this:
My guess is my problem is going to be on the board. If it was one of the yellow wires, it looks like a whole bunch of other things attached to the same point would be affected too. Again, that's a total guess. I'm going to poke around some more, but I'd love to hear other peoples opinions.
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The white/yellow wires are just the common side of the run attached to a resistor. I'm going to guess that resistor is tied back to the power supply as the driver board just closes each circuit to ground. Where that bulb is locked on, I would say the associated FET/transistor is shorted. So you'll have to check the manual to see which one is used to control that lamp, and then test it with your DMM. If you confirm it's shorted then it will need to be replaced, and if you've never done PCB repair I highly suggest you have someone that does do the PCB repair for you. (see my post here for what can happen if not comfortable with PCB repair; http://www.pinballrevolution.com/viewtopic.php?f=43&t=853)
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Thanks Doug. I probably wouldn't tackle a PCB repair. I'll try to track down the problem, then maybe let someone else handle it.
As a side not, the socket for the bulb in question is putting out almost 20 volts. It's supposed to be closer to 12 volts, no?
As a side not, the socket for the bulb in question is putting out almost 20 volts. It's supposed to be closer to 12 volts, no?
Yep, there is a short somewhere for sure., and I'm thinking the voltage should be closer to 6.3V if it's a #44 or #555 bulb. (if it's a flasher #906 or #89 then 12V is correct but 20V isn't out of the norm for a flasher circuit)
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