Tim's Rollergames thread
- Thread starter tim.sanderson
- Start date
Carbon can be a bit of a pain to remove, but it must be removed during the repair as it's conductive! Luckily it's very minor and should clean up easily. Was it just the resistor(s) that went up in flames?
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Usually 99% ISO does a decent job. In extreme cases you may have to scrape / sand / dremel the carbonized area but like I said... only in extreme cases.
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I've got a Hakko 808 solder sucker if you want to bring the board over for repair...you've also got some parts here to pick up!
That sounds like a plan. I've got my old board to harvest parts from.spiroagnew said:
I'd send ya a text, but my phone is misbehaving at the moment. (Win8 phone that's stuck in an infinite reboot loop) I'll PM you in a bit.
Yep, that resistor has been replaced for sure. I would be looking into what that transistor / resistor section is driving in the game and then be looking at the associate coil / lamp in question. It's clearly taking a while for it to fail, so it could be a case of a coil with a boarderline low resistance or maybe even a coil that has a very minor internal short that only shows up when the coil heats up?
This could be a fun one to track down!
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This could be a fun one to track down!
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Indeed.Menace said:
I swapped out the resistor and threw it all back together to see if the right-side flippers work again as I track down the culprit. Still no flippers.
The plot thickens.
Bust out your schematics and figure out what that resistor / transistor combo drives before you go any further.
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As I poke around my RG today, I'm reminded that a certain part (D33) has been missing from my AUX driver board since the day I got it. While I'm fairly certain it can't be the cause of my flipper problem, I can't help but think that if the game didn't need it the designers wouldn't have put it there. I'll try and track one down today.
At the risk of sounding like a total noob; what are those called? I'm pretty sure it's not a resistor...
At the risk of sounding like a total noob; what are those called? I'm pretty sure it's not a resistor...
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Interesting. Until the flipper problem, the game played (seemingly) just fine without it.
Maybe I'll swap driver boards between Jokerz and RG to see if anything noticeable happens.
Maybe I'll swap driver boards between Jokerz and RG to see if anything noticeable happens.
Neat! I swapped driver boards and the right-side flippers now work.
If it's the missing diode 33 that's causing the problem, I'm confused as how I managed to play 100+ games before the flippers failed. Not that I'm complaining, I've been dying to play RG again for the past couple of weeks!
I'll start looking for what looks to be a CR3-010 diode. If I can't find one, I'll try to find a non-working driver board to use as an organ donor.
If it's the missing diode 33 that's causing the problem, I'm confused as how I managed to play 100+ games before the flippers failed. Not that I'm complaining, I've been dying to play RG again for the past couple of weeks!
I'll start looking for what looks to be a CR3-010 diode. If I can't find one, I'll try to find a non-working driver board to use as an organ donor.
Looks like D33 goes to a transistor that's already been removed so no need to repopulate. You can confirm this visually and with your DMM.
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So I’ve had some magnet problems for the past week or two. There’s a coil under the playfield that is meant to hold the ball, allowing you to make the WALL-OF-DEATH shot. I’ve tested all the fuses and the coil itself. I think I got 5 or 6 ohms when I tested the coils resistance, and 60 volts when I checked the leads going into the coil. While the magnet worked from day one (and for a few months without any problem), it’s only recently been acting up. It doesn’t want to catch the ball anymore, even if I hold it there to make sure it’s not a timing issue.
When I bought the machine, there were notes written across the lock bar on masking tape:
It says there was a shorting problem with the magnet.
Seeing as I am getting decent voltage coming into the coil, does this sound like I should just replace the coil, or could there be a different problem?
When I bought the machine, there were notes written across the lock bar on masking tape:
It says there was a shorting problem with the magnet.
Seeing as I am getting decent voltage coming into the coil, does this sound like I should just replace the coil, or could there be a different problem?
Obviously there are issues, taking into consideration that tape note...but to chime in: mine had severe magnet issues too, wouldn't catch the ball at all, until a secondary ground wire was run to the main ground braid. It now only misses one out of every thirty times...which I blame an over-enthusiastic VUK for anyhow.