What should I have on hand for my pins?

[CJBob]

My dolly in now at home (thanks again for the suggestions) and I've got another week or two to wait for Santa to arrive with my pin(s). What else should I have on hand to be able to handle basic issues?

I would assume spare bulbs, both LED and traditional? Specific tools to properly and carefully get a job done? Any specific cleaning products that are a must? I also wondered about a specific current/board testers to help debug a problem when it inevitably comes up?

I'm incredibly impressed by Drano's restorations but these are way out of my reach, for now I just want to have the most likely things on hand to help keep my early SS Bally's alive.

Cheers

P.S. And beer, I'll always have beer on hand

 

[mwong168]

I probably use my Klein Magnetic Hollow Shaft drivers the most of all my tools. It comes in a set of 7 otherwise you could get away with the 3-4 individual sizes to save a bit of cash.

http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=1839

SAE Hey Allen Key Set

http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=2246

Leaf Adjuster Tool

http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=1518

These are some that come to mind when I browse through Pinball Life's tool section. Some other things you can pick up at your local Home Depot or even dollar store are:

Telescopic Magnetic Pick Up Tool

Magnetic Tray/Bowl

Fuse Puller, makes me cringe when I see people using a flat head screw driver to pull a fuse out of it's holder each time.

Novus 2 - to keep your playfield clean

 

[mwong168]

At some point you will also want to invest in a nice temperature controlled soldering station. You could probably get away with a cheap $15-20 hobby iron but if you plan on staying in this hobby and working on your games I think it is best to just spend a bit more and get a nicer iron.

You will also want to invest in a nice digital multimeter (DMM) too and they aren't all built equal from what I was told. I know Fluke makes really good ones and guys like Menace have been using the same one for 10-15+ years.

 

[mitch_a]

I use Novus 1 to do quick cleans of my playfeild in high traffic areas. Novus 2 only used on very dirty games.

 

[Chris Bardon]

Mike hit the major ones-I looked everywhere for those nut drivers before buying the pinball life ones (since they're pricey and heavy for shipping), but nobody had anything similar. I got away with a regular socket set for a while, but those things make working on games much easier. I've actually been looking for a comparable quality set of magnetic screwdrivers (i.e. ones that won't get chewed up after you use them twice), but haven't come across anything yet.

 

[Luckydogg420]

I highly recomend the hakko solder iron. It's amazing.

 

[Menace]

Now would be a great time for anyone that needs a good quality DMM to jump on the Fluke 115 deal at MCM.

http://www.mcmelectronics.com/product/105-655?utm_campaign=MyBuys&utm_medium=Email&utm_source=Email
http://www.mcmelectronics.com/product/105-655?utm_campaign=MyBuys&utm_medium=Email&utm_source=Email
Another item that you should have on hand for each pin is a good manual with schematics, as these are essential for when things go wrong.

D

 

[CJBob]

Excellent, thanks Mike, I wish I had known about magnet trays years ago, a very good idea that I hadn't run across before.

I read through http://homepinballrepair.com/ and understood most of what was covered. I'm also aware enough of my limitations to stop when I think there is a danger of me doing more harm that good.

 

[Chris Bardon]

Those magnet trays regularly go on sale at Canadian Tire, so keep an eye out there. I've got a bunch of them, and they're essential for keeping screws and such from running away.

 

[mwong168]

Dollarama has these magnetic trays for $2-3 everyday so no need to wait for a sale at Canadian Tire. Some other tools have have on hand or learn how to use is a crimping too because at one point or another you will need to recrimp a burned or tarnished IDC connector. What is shown here are your standard IDC connectors which are not the greatest and should be replaced with trifurcon because it is a better connection.

I just recently organized a group buy on this ratcheting style crimper from amazon with a bunch of friends.

Here is a video of how it is used:

You will probably want to invest in a set of wire strippers and always had good results with this style tool since wiring MAME control panels back in 2009.

http://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/m...r-and-cutter-combo-0529923p.html#.VIh7fzCJOuY

For all your molex connectors, pin headers and trifuricon pins I would recommend doing a bulk order from Great Plains Electronics. These molex connectors come in 3,4,5... 20 pin configuration and my recommendation instead of stocking up on specific ones get the biggest one and you can cut it down and sand the sides smooth to size to suit your needs or repair.

Same thing for the pin headers too because they can be snapped to specific sizes. Normally if you replace the burned connector it is good practice to replace the pin headers as well otherwise your new connector can potentially burn up in no time like the old one.

For the trifurcon pins I would just buy like 100 because if you are new at this chances are you will have some poor crimps and re-stocking accordingly.

I would also stock up on common fuses as well because The Source is incredibly expensive compared to places like Pinball Life.

 

[freeman]

If you are looking to stock up, you might consider capacitors that go across the switch. A lot of SS Bally's have trouble with these capacitors.

You will know if yours does, when the switches start mis-behaving (mostly not registering).

congrats on your new pins!

 

[CJBob]

I just added a magnifying glass with a light to my shopping list, there is no chance I'm going to be able to read the writing on the side of a fuse otherwise.

I found the schematics and manuals in PDF format for my games.

 

[superjackpot]

Budget is often the initial constraint on which tools you should buy first.
Ratching crimpers or manual A & B crimpers?
Temperature control soldering station or a basic 30W soldering iron?
Full set of magnetic klein sockets or some basic ones for now?

Here are some of my recommendations.

$90 - 7.2-Volt Cordless Two-Position Screwdriver
- Perfect amount of torque, bits lock in and won't fall out. I use this *all* the time.

$12.00 - 3 pc SAE Long Magnetic Power Nut Driver Set
These will cover all of your nut driving needs. The long lengths are awesome. Mine have yet to lose the magnet inside.
http://www.princessauto.com/en/detail/3-pc-sae-long-magnetic-power-nut-driver-set/A-p8288847e

1/4 drive SAE socket set with short and long sockets, short and long extensions
- any CTire set will do good. The 11/32 size socket not often found in wrenches is used to remove various locking nuts (nylocs)

SAE wrenches
- smaller sizes are used a lot 1/4", 5/16"... any CTire set will do good

1/4 drive adaptor for above driver. *Key* piece. Now you can power all your sockets

Long screw driver bits. Like those in the set below.
http://www.shop.ca/c/neiko-32-piece...gclid=CM_DqZrCvMICFQGraQod0DsAAQ&gclsrc=aw.ds

The security bits in this set are a bonus too. This link at $40 free shipping is not a bad package deal. Usually you want to buy a set of small security/torx bits but I'd have bought these altogether at this price.

You may notice a trend, avoid primary use of those dinky magnetic bit holders and the smallish bits. Bits fall out or get left behind in the piece. I prefer the locking types for the battery powered driver.

Good quality hand screw drivers, phillips and flathead primarily, various sizes. (American's have no clue that the best screw design is a Robertson although I hear it's slowly catching on in construction)

Having a magnetic property tip helps to hold the screw as you apply it, or even pick up a dropped one.

Three prong retrieval tool
- A fav of mine. Sometimes magnets including telescopic ones are not the right retrieval tool. They get stuck against other metal on the way.

http://tentenothman.wordpress.com/2013/03/09/three-prongs-part-retriever/

Nut drivers are still required.
These are not magnetic but only $17. Magnetic is fine but I get by with the set of three long ones above.
http://www.rona.ca/en/set-of-7-nut-drivers

Manual 1/4 drive - Often included in larger ratchet sets. Handy for manual, non-powered, non ratchet use of sockets. Sometimes you need a hands on touch when tightening your nuts

Work light.

Get a good one. You will use it a lot. The led types always seem weak to me. I prefer the direct ac power (no flimsy dc adaptor) using 13W fluorescent tube types (spares sold at Ctire). Here is an example. Mine is a dual tube version with an AC outlet in the handle. Note the hook at the top. Almost mandatory when working under your playfield.

http://www.lowes.ca/work-shop-light...632&cse=3632&gclid=CNOD7-iyvMICFfPm7AodOhEAOg

The other suggestions in previous posts are absolutely necessary too... digital multimeter, telescopic magnetic tool, Novus 2 (and lots of microfiber cloths), magnifying glass... Don't forget carnauba wax, windex, paper/shop towels... needle nose pliers, good snips, solder etc.


I just wanted to highlight my preference for some of the basics.


Barry

 

[bstock]

If you don't have magnetic nut drivers, you can always put a small piece of paper towel over the nut and then push the driver over it. This will hold it in place for those hard to get to areas just fine.


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[luch]

Nice ! great idea

 

[bstock]

Just picked up one of these lights from Maslack. It has a a really strong magnet on the base, one on the back, and a hook on the top that swivels and kinda locks in place to a certain extent. The light pivots on the base and holds it's position well. Super impressed with it so far. I feel like some type of lighting like this is almost essential when you're working in some tighter areas.

In the second picture you can see the magnet lightly grabbing the edge of the metal rail and the hook hanging from the underside of the playfield.

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[eh97ac]

Best $20 I ever spent

 

[DRANO]

I've been looking for a good task light. The stuff I've tried isn't all that great for one reason or another.
That magnetic one looks decent. I wonder what the battery life on it it like? I bought something similar and it's definitley not meant for long term use.

I have a couple of those PETZL headlamps that I take camping. They're good but not a true replacement for a full-on task lamp.

 

[bstock]

I've been looking for a good task light. The stuff I've tried isn't all that great for one reason or another.
That magnetic one looks decent. I wonder what the battery life on it it like? I bought something similar and it's definitley not meant for long term use.

I have a couple of those PETZL headlamps that I take camping. They're good but not a true replacement for a full-on task lamp.

I'll have to get back to you on battery life. This one is all LED so I've got high hopes for it. The brightness is excellent in my opinion. Runs on 2 AA batteries. We'll see. It's got three lighting modes, and with the two magnetic spots and the hook, I've had a hard time finding a location that it's not able to light hands free one way or another.

Here are some more pictures.

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[superjackpot]

This model was my first light many years ago but it was yellow with a 6 foot cord... I broke it and searched for a replacement but was never satisfied with what I found. Came back to this model again but this time chose the one with a 25ft extension cord. I now plug it into my workbench and can reach either end of my game room instead of using the service outlet (not always) in the pinball machine.
The light is very bright, even, and cool to the touch - i.e. safe. It uses 2 x 13W fluorescent tubes which can be individually switched on. Tubes can break if the light is dropped but replacement tubes are available at Canadian Tire.
Bright light is important to me and I've never found an led light that could match it. It has a 12 amp grounded receptacle in the base of the handle and a swivel hook at either end for handy placement.

I've seen some pictured with magnets made to clip around the neck just above the grip.
Link to the 6ft version .