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metal ball guides on those upper lanes? D

I'd be following Sylvain's suggestoins then under the PF, and look for anything that could be touching something that it shouldn't. If the switches register correctly in switch test and solenoids all work correctly in test.... D

All the switches register correctly per the manual in switch test? D

It could just be bad pins in the connectors or cold solder joints on the headers that Sylvain mentioned, it's a common issue. You can put side pressure on these connectors while the game is on to see if the issue goes away. D

Should be the same but you'll have the swap the roms on the MPU in order to get the switch and solenoids to work/test correctly. D

If all the switches work correctly in switch edge test, I would suspect an issue on either the connectors between the MPU and the driver or an issue with the decoder chip on the driver. If you toss the game into solenoid test and all the wrong coils are firing or the same coil fires more than...

I would have used the GoT logo on the sides of the cab instead of all the characters. D

At these price point's I'd rather drop my coin on TBL... D

MJF did in fact refuse his likeness on the game, but never heard the reason why... I personally don't mind the game but like many DE games pretty much comes down to one shot. D

Nah, If you're replacing the connector you should ditch the IDC connectors all together and use a crimp trifuricon pin. D

Yep, it's a *slightly* weaker coil but I doubt you'd notice the diff. D

If it's in fact the yellow set on pins 6 & 7 that drives the sub then you're looking at the TDA @ U102. I will say the red set of wires in the IDC connector looks suspect too, like the wires got pulled out and someone mashed them in again with whatever they could find... D

I'm sure I've got some that will work even though they may not be exactly the same part#. D

Yep, sorry I was looking at the SAM schematics I guess? As for which one, you will have to tell me which 2 pins of the speaker connector go to the lower cabinet and then I can confirm via the correct schematics. D

Ryan, As we discussed previously, this is likely an issue with the amp section on the MPU/Sound PCB. This game uses two TDA2030 amp's (U50 & U51), one for backbox and one for lower cabinet. I am willing to bet that the one powering the lower cabinet speaker is blown and needs to be replaced...

Nope, with that kind of PF wear I'd say no way 3K. And if you couldn't get in the backbox who knows what the driver and MPU look like... trouble is SOMEONE out in Kijiji land would likely give him close to his asking if not the full 3K these days. Silly... D

I would think that solution could be ok, and might pass code but you'll have to verify. D

Nope, once the wire has been compromised you either need to connect it back togher with an approved device like a marrette etc and enclose that in an accessable box (any AC wire that is connected together must be accessable at all times per code), or rip a whole new wire. If it was low voltage...

Yeah for metal parts they should be submerged or you *can* have tarnishing effects on some parts. For plastic parts like that pop assembly it's ok. D

Yeah, 24" is the recommended but 18" is code. Just trench where you need the wire to go 24" down, lay the cable and backfill if the wire is not compromised anywhere. D