Start by taking all the balls out of the game, and put it into switch test. Then drop a ball into the trough and you should see it register each of the trough opto's, and as long as thats ok you know all the emitters and receivers are working. Then you need to confirm what switches are doing...
I would start with the ball trough, and then check the ball lock switches. Something is not registering properly.
Adam's suggestion is also valid. If they are backwards the game will be confused and could try to kick 2 balls out as it's seeing too many in the trough under those conditions.
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I think with the Pred and Zombieland games everyone realizes those are 'boutique' games, and pre-payment / deposits are required to move things along.
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I blame my mom or my addiction. I grew up inside a roller rink in the 80's as my mom was in a league and I just naturally gravitated towards the pins. (And subsequently hanging out with the DJ). I always told myself that when I had my own place I would get a pinball machine. Fast forward 20...
Yeah, if you're not getting any sound board errors on boot-up my previous comment about it being in the amplifier section is probably bang on. (especially where adjusting the volume does nothing to raise and lower the level of the ground buzz. Time to bust out the schematics and your DMM and...
Sounds like a plan. If you need my services, the best thing to do is get the PCB to me. From there I can sit with the schematics and troubleshoot, and test in one of my games.
I have still only hauled the ROBOT home, and finally had the motivation to at least haul it into the basement...
It's a sound board issue for sure. You need to figure out if the issue is pre-amp or post. If you have any PCB re-work experience I would say this is a problem you might be able to solve yourself. If you're not comfortable doing PCB re-work, and are not comfortable reading schematics this...
There is no problem physically connecting a 1/4" Tip/Ring to the speaker wire but as Luckydog said, don't plug it into your mixer unless it's a non-amplified source. You would be doing the same you originally did with the RCA input on your sub.
If people don't want to hack around their PCB's...
Nah, it's a Sys3 game so there must be a non-tournament way to set it to free play. I had a Sys3 Strikes N' Spares that was set to free play. Just wait for the manual to show up, it'll explain it all in there.
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Put the game into switch test mode and activate EVERY switch manually to verify what switches are not working. If its all random likely bad switches or broke wires on the switch. If you notice a pattern, once you get the manual, like all the bad switches are in the same row or column, you could...
Huzzah! Glad you got it powered up. Ground buzz, ugh... could be simple but could also have you running in circles. Check for obvious things like the ground strap from the lower cab to head is in place, and that all the pcbs are screwed down and tight. From there you should verify all the...
I got mine from Jim @ Rottendog Amusements, he is a fantastic person to deal with and his products are always top notch at great prices.
http://rottendog.us/CLK001.html
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I often wondered if the ramps would get one last re-work or not. Those are definitely home brew, and here's hoping they get James @ Pinball Inc to produce the production versions.
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