Starburst places orders with PBR quite often, so you could always have them order it up and avoid the money order hassle. The one thing you will find is PBR will be the only source for the majority of parts for your game as they are the rights holder to all things GTB. What you could do to...
You could always use the round strap or any of the 3 ground pins on the J1 connector, and the j1 connector I'm talking about should be the large connector on the magnet PCB.
I would also check the diodes on the magnet PCB to make sure none of them have gone open.
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If the blanking LED is going out the issue is coming from the MPU. With the game off remove and reseat the small ribbon cable between the MPU and driver. Then push on every single socketed IC on the MPU, as you may find one or two that are not totally seated in their sockets. Power up and see...
Sys3 used some funky switches so ringing that switch out between the two contacts might work when you close it, but it may not as it has some circuitry on the switch itself. They were a "smart switch" that apparently never required cleaning or adjusting, and if they were adjusted at any point...
Yep, I've got a set of the original runs done by Vic Ireland waiting to be installed when I swap in my CC'd PF. I wouldn't mind getting my hands on the CPR topper plastics tho. (hint hint if anyone doesn't want theirs)
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Ok, don't think you're doing it correctly. You got the part about the connector side right as long as your DMM lead is making contact with the pin in the housing at all times. You then take your other DMM lead and touch it to the leg of each switch with the same colour wire (in this case the...
Ahh, but it's not odd. All System3 games share all strobe lines between the lamp AND switch matrix. So every switch matrix row is tied to the exact same strobe line as the lamp matrix row. This is why troubleshooting lamp and switch matrix issues on these games is a royal pain in the ass...
Bally / WMS would never have moved to this whole pro/prem/LE model of business. They were always the top of the food chain when it came to pinball, and they marketed themselves as such. You buy BLY/WMS, you knew you were getting the best of the best.
That's my take on it. :)
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Agreed.
I think the comments that surrounded this issue was the fact the people organizing this originally reached out to collectors and were asking them to do this for nothing.
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Ok, so you want to check the wire from A3J3 pin 10 and make sure you have continuity from the connector through ALL of the switches. The wire colour code is 411 which is a white wire with a yellow and 2 brown stripes. Use your DMM in continuity test and ring out from the a3J3 connector pin 10...
Actually, before we get you digging into PCB's and whatnot... Did you happen to look at the manual and figure out if all of the switches that go dead are on the same row of the matrix? Look into it and post back here.
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Yep, which is exactly why I feel the price point with the clear dome and the white plastic bracket + decal was more than fair. Hell, the domes are selling for $80 these days, and the bracket is $20 on their own!
Pretty decent if you ask me.
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After many many many years of people working on this (and me personally supplying an original NOS decal to Darin Jacobs) the guys over at Twisted Pins have finally managed to pull this off. For the first time ever, an original style reproduction of the foil topper on Wh20 is now available...
The second link you posted is none other than our own "REVOLUTION" member's artistic creativity. Maybe shoot him a message and see if he'd be interested in offering his service?
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