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Any suggestions on generic Mylar for spot protection

Chris Bardon

Well-Known Member
Nov 15, 2012
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Mississauga, ON
I have a couple of games where I wanted to add some mylar for spot protection-any suggestions on what to use? I think I remember reading that people had used laminating sheets-if so anything in particular to look out for? I'd rather not rip off paint/clear with the wrong adhesive.
 

dnewman

Active Member
Oct 29, 2013
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Newmarket
Ask Luch where he got some peel & stick mylar. I used some on where the ball drops from a rail, or on the TZ diverter, and they work really well!
 

Chris Bardon

Well-Known Member
Nov 15, 2012
1,343
182
63
Mississauga, ON
I was wondering if those self adhesive sheets were worth using-I'll see if I can track some down.

I noticed that the blackbird scoop on X-Men was starting to get a little chewed up on the right side. I wanted to put something over it to try to keep it from wearing out any more (even though I've had the Mantis protector in there forever).
 

mwong168

Administrator
Staff member
Nov 14, 2012
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Toronto
I'd rather not rip off paint/clear with the wrong adhesive.

When removing mylar or anything you put down on the playfield don't treat it like a band aid and rip it off in one shot. You use either a hair dryer or a heat gun carefully to slowly peal it up and then goo gone to clean the left over residue. If it is really stubborn you could also use a freeze spray aka compressed air flipped upside down to remove it. I had excellent results with this method a few years ago which you can read about here:

http://pinballrevolution.com/threads/removing-mylar-and-crappy-glue-the-easy-way.168/

The Avery sheet's adhesive is probably not nearly as aggressive as mylar so removal should be much easier. I will warn you that if you use any form of protection for frequent ball drop areas like Creech shown below:

15746709797_b926f420c7_b.jpg


I don't have a pic of my right inlane before but it was completely blown out down to the wood before Drano made a decal to cover it up. Since the ball is constantly being dropped on the artwork it might have already separated from the playfield and the only thing holding it in place is the mylar. So when you remove to replace with a new piece the artwork might come up with it.

If you want some additional protection to your Blackbird scoop before you lay down the Avery sheet you can apply some Hard as Nails too.

spin_prod_171587701
 

websherpa

Active Member
Feb 10, 2013
281
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Waterdown, ON
Since the ball is constantly being dropped on the artwork it might have already separated from the playfield and the only thing holding it in place is the mylar. So when you remove to replace with a new piece the artwork might come up with it.

That's pretty common, but by the time it gets to that point you can hardly see the artwork for the clouded mylar and accumulated dust under it. So it's pretty much a given that you're going to be doing some touch-up or a scanned sticker.

I really love the Avery vinyl laminating sheet stuff, it gives some flexible strength to many things, including drop and lolipop targets (I often custom cut circles to adhere to the front of plain plastic circular and rectangle targets (cutting an extra small hole with a punch for the rivets to show through). My theory is that beside the constant abrasive pounding that the hard plastic targets get, the flexible vinyl helps distribute the impact a little with less chance of cracking the target.

Once you decide to remove the Avery Vinyl, the plastic below it is saved from wear and tear and you just apply a new piece. They remain flexible and adhere for a long time. I find that it doesn't edge peel as much as mylar does (which goes brittle with time), and adhesive doesn't ooze out the edges attracting solenoid dust as much as mylar does. But then I haven't been using it as long as some of the mylar that has been on most of my machines.