best way to polish metal?
- Thread starter tim.sanderson
- Start date
Vengeance
Well-Known Member
luch
Super Member
Vengeance
Well-Known Member
Guess you forgot to bring the stuff eh Tim? 
If you want to drop by some other time just let me know, my door is always open.
If you want to drop by some other time just let me know, my door is always open.
Ah yes, I forgot to mention last night... I had decided not to take off the metal bits yet. I might save that for another time.
Thanks again for the offer, though. I may still bring something by in the near future.
Thanks again for the offer, though. I may still bring something by in the near future.
You might want to check this IJ restore on pinside by Bryan Kelly. It's not exactly a mirror finish polish but he shows you how he re-grains ball guides.
http://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/ ... st-1150334
You might want to bookmark it and read through all the pages as he gives lot of tips and secrets he uses for his restores.
http://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/ ... st-1150334
You might want to bookmark it and read through all the pages as he gives lot of tips and secrets he uses for his restores.
Vengeance
Well-Known Member
Although his post does start off with
So if you enjoy being kicked in the nuts go to town
I was at one point thinking about offering metal polishing services since I have the proper tools and supplies, but I'm too lazy and critical of my own work, so I'd rather just offer to help people out instead That way if something doesn't turn out exactly as expected, you get what ya pay for :mrgreen:
Brian Kelly said:
So if you enjoy being kicked in the nuts go to town
I was at one point thinking about offering metal polishing services since I have the proper tools and supplies, but I'm too lazy and critical of my own work, so I'd rather just offer to help people out instead
That way if something doesn't turn out exactly as expected, you get what ya pay for :mrgreen:
I'd likely only try stuff like that on small things like wire gate brackets and stuff. For the big metal ramps, I will indeed come a callin' for your buffer.
cdnpinballer
Member
- Nov 15, 2012
- 342
- 13
- 18
I've had good success using a product called Autosol to polish metal by hand.
No buffer required and not much elbow grease either.
No buffer required and not much elbow grease either.
Chris Bardon
Well-Known Member
I've just used some stuff that I got from Marco a while back (NevrDull), and it's pretty good for doing rails and ball guides. Not as good as what you'll get with a buffer, but at least better than doing nothing to them at all.
zebulon
Member
Pharoah007
Active Member
Vengeance said:
wear a tight fitting T-shirt
If you don't get it... watch Adams polishing video....he is one lucky dude.
superjackpot
Active Member
A buffing wheel was the way I used to buff all metal... Remove a bunch of parts and go into the garage with compound(s) in hand and work the cloth wheel.
Since then I found that for regraining ball guides, ball troughs, metal ramps... even touching up wire gates that have lost their lustre, or controlled gates with rusty flaps the sanding pads are awesome. I still use the cloth wheel, but not all the time.
http://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/glit-sanding-pads-3-pk-0542186p.html#.UyUB0T9dUn8
Pads are just that much quicker, and often you don't even have to remove the parts. I've carefully done ball guides and metal ramps in game after taking some time to protect the PF. It really depends on whether you are stripping the PF in the first place, or doing some touch ups. Of course it's always best to remove the part from the game and work it on the bench. The sponge pads work great on curved parts, fold nicely into places like ball troughs, and they seem to last a long time. Price is right too.
Since then I found that for regraining ball guides, ball troughs, metal ramps... even touching up wire gates that have lost their lustre, or controlled gates with rusty flaps the sanding pads are awesome. I still use the cloth wheel, but not all the time.
http://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/glit-sanding-pads-3-pk-0542186p.html#.UyUB0T9dUn8
Pads are just that much quicker, and often you don't even have to remove the parts. I've carefully done ball guides and metal ramps in game after taking some time to protect the PF. It really depends on whether you are stripping the PF in the first place, or doing some touch ups. Of course it's always best to remove the part from the game and work it on the bench. The sponge pads work great on curved parts, fold nicely into places like ball troughs, and they seem to last a long time. Price is right too.
Vengeance
Well-Known Member
Pharoah007 said:Vengeance said:
wear a tight fitting T-shirt
If you don't get it... watch Adams polishing video....he is one lucky dude.
I deleted that video
Pharoah007
Active Member
Vengeance said:Pharoah007 said:Vengeance said:
wear a tight fitting T-shirt
If you don't get it... watch Adams polishing video....he is one lucky dude.
I deleted that video
Too bad... it was a good vid.
I use 4 different methods to polish metal depending on the piece and condition of the piece as well.
I soak overnight rusted screws and pinball legs in Evapo-Rust (see pic).
If the the metal part is in not bad condition like brass parts for example (tilt mecanism), I only use a polishing paste (see pic)
If the metal part is quite large or big and especially if it's stainless steel, I use a sander and start with 320 grit sand paper and go through 400, 600, 1000, 1500 and 2000 grit sand paper.
I used this method on my BR side rails and lock down bar, check the results on the the pics.
And lastly use the buffing wheel method also.....
http://www.maaca.org/download/file.php? ... &mode=view
http://www.maaca.org/download/file.php? ... &mode=view
http://www.maaca.org/download/file.php? ... &mode=view
http://www.maaca.org/download/file.php? ... &mode=view
http://www.maaca.org/download/file.php? ... &mode=view
I soak overnight rusted screws and pinball legs in Evapo-Rust (see pic).
If the the metal part is in not bad condition like brass parts for example (tilt mecanism), I only use a polishing paste (see pic)
If the metal part is quite large or big and especially if it's stainless steel, I use a sander and start with 320 grit sand paper and go through 400, 600, 1000, 1500 and 2000 grit sand paper.
I used this method on my BR side rails and lock down bar, check the results on the the pics.
And lastly use the buffing wheel method also.....
http://www.maaca.org/download/file.php? ... &mode=view
http://www.maaca.org/download/file.php? ... &mode=view
http://www.maaca.org/download/file.php? ... &mode=view
http://www.maaca.org/download/file.php? ... &mode=view
http://www.maaca.org/download/file.php? ... &mode=view