"Dialing In" your pin

[DRANO]

There seems to be a bit of confusion lately with some of the newer collectors/players on what it means to dial in a game. So, just to offer a little clarification, here's a rundown.

"Dialing In" is simply the art properly setting up and adjusting your machine.
This can be just as important on a NIB as it would be on a game that's been on location for 20 years. Things are not always set up just right on the assembly line, and older games often need a lot of adjustment.

Most games require micro-adjustments to ensure that they play just as the designers intended.
Here are a few things that you may have to do. Please feel free to add your own if I've forgotten anything.

-first, make sure your game is set to the right pitch and is level left to right. Adjust the leg levellers so that the game has about a 6.5 degree pitch. Place your inclinometer or digital level on the playfield surface (not the glass).
Also check for left to right level on the playfield at both the top and bottom. Watch that your level is perfectly horizontal on the playfield before taking a reading. Faster or slower pitch is fine and a matter of taste.

-Flippers. These are the heart of your game. Make sure they are set to the right angle. On BW games there were often two small holes just behind the flippers. Remove the rubber, loosen the flippers from underneath and then place a toothpick in the hole and let the flipper rest on it... Then tighten. This is the correct position.
Sterns have the hole set so that the middle of the flipper should point directly to it. Other games may be different.

Also, adjust your EOS (end of stroke) switches under the flippers so that they do not open until the flipper is almost at the top of its travel. This will ensure stronger flippers with no loss of power.

-Ball guides must be adjusted properly. I had a TZ that, every time I would fire a ball into the right orbit, it would come out the left side and then clip a rubber post that was holding up the powerfield. I knew this is not what the designer intended. I bent and adjusted the curve of the stainless ball guide so that it cleared the post perfectly, but also did not fire it straight down the middle.

-Check that ramp entrances are smooth and ramps are not pitched too high. This can cause balls to be rejected more often than normal.

There are a lot of other little things, but these are the basics.
You'll want to insure that only correct parts are always installed. Also make sure rubber rings are the correct size and the correct tension spring is used in your shooter rod.

Rmemeber that this is not the same as "shopping" a machine. Essentially, our goal is to make the game as mechanically smooth as possible.

And don't forget a good regular cleaning/polish and waxing... and if your pinballs are pitted or scratched, install new ones.

Now go and enjoy!

Would love to hear what else others do

 

[Luckydogg420]

Thank you for this info. I never new that the holes behind the flippers were there for alignment. I assumed that's what they were for, but i wasn't certain.

On my iPad I use "Clinometer HD" for playfield leveling. Works great.

In a game with four flippers, is there a proper way to set up the flipper switches and EOS switches to have the most reactive flippers?

 

[DRANO]

In a game with four flippers, is there a proper way to set up the flipper switches and EOS switches to have the most reactive flippers?

If you have flipper boards with optos, I don't think there is much you can adjust... maybe the tension? Just keep the optos nice and clean. On older games with leaf switches behind the flipper buttons, I suppose that you can adjust the leaf to make it more of a "hair trigger" and engage right away... but this could cause other issues (like vibration setting off your flippers).

I wouldn't sweat the flipper bottom switches too much unless they're not working properly in the first place.
It definitely won't make them any more powerful. For that you should consider rebuilding the flipper assembly, installing a fresh coil sleeve, a new coil stop if the old one is mushroomed, and adjusting the EOS as mentioned before.

 

[Pharoah007]

"Also, adjust your EOS (end of stroke) switches under the flippers so that they do not open until the flipper is almost at the top of its travel. This will ensure stronger flippers with no loss of power."

Almost EVERY pin I work on has this out of adjustment....such a easy thing to check/correct and makes a big diff in flipper power.

 

[Slam_Tilt]

Also on new Sterns check out how tight the flipper are against the flipper bushings. There should be about 1/16th inch play when you physically lift up the flipper from the playfield. I have seen many Stern games where they are really tight and after a few minutes of playing you will see the flippers get weak or in some bad case will not flip at all.

 

[bstock]

This is an interesting thread. Since I'm new and just recently purchased my first pin, I am just learning the art of "dialing in" a machine.

When I first got my WCS home, I just wanted to set it up and play it. I leveled the playfield but pretty much left the pitch where it was. I figure this was probably around 5.5 - 6 degrees.

After I took most of the stuff off the top side and gave it a thorough cleaning it played a lot faster. I especially noticed the speed the ball travelled around the clean ramps and how the not so perfect ramp shots were now able to get to the "make point" on the ramp.

The game played a lot nicer and I was scoring some higher scores, so I decided to increase the difficulty by opening up the outlanes and increasing the pitch (I also turned off the extra balls, and increased the striker difficulty).

I increased the pitch to approximately 8 degrees and played it that way for a couple of days. This made the machine play faster and ensured that only good ramp shots made it all the way up the ramp, but overall, the machine didn't feel right.

Since then I have reduced the pitch to about 6.5 - 7 degrees. The ramps are a little bit more forgiving, and overall the play feels much much better. The fully open outlanes, especially the left, are now ball magnets for any ball that becomes out of control on the bottom half of the play field. This new set up makes mastering the shot to relight the kickback crucial.

I wouldn't have believed that the same machine could feel so differently with what seem to be very minor adjustments, but I'm definitely starting to see how important it is to "dial them in".

 

[DRANO]

And this is why the same title can feel different when played at a dozen different locations.
There are just so many variables, and some are pretty much up to user preference.

Another item that was brought to my attention is pop-bumpers.
Adjusting the sensitivity on the spoon switches underneath each pop can make them very sensitive and te ball could spend ages being bounced around between them (not my preferred setting)

Make sure to purchase a leaf switch adjuster tool.
Good switch adjustment is also a key element when dialing in a game.

As for heavy pitch. Anything really drastic may make ramp shots nearly impossible, but it also helps return the ball to the flippers and cradling a lot easier due to gravity. Bigger is not always better.
I stick to 6.5-7 degress on a modern game and about 5-6 on an EM

 

[Menace]

Excellent thread, and a number of variables all come down to personal preference. As Drano mentioned above, pop bumper switch gap is a crutial variable for me, along with the sling switch gaps. I personally prefer all pops and slings to be as sensitive as possible without having them machine-gun or have any phantom closures from vibration. Again this is my personal preference but for me there is nothing worse than having a ball hit a pop skirt or the sling rubber and NOTHING happen. (it actually pisses me off lol)

Also games must be level side to side and pitched correctly too, very important.

D

 

[bstock]

I'm with menace on the sensitivity of the pops and slings. Right now the pops and slings on my machine are not sensitive enough for my liking, and I will be adjusting those switches soon.

On the topic of leaf switch adjustment. I don't currently have one of those leaf switch adjustment tools. They look like they would come in super handy. I didn't see this tool on the starburst website.

Does anyone know if starburst does have these and they just aren't on the website? I'm planning to come down for the CPC tournament and I'd like to get one at that time if I could.

 

[superjackpot]

One of my favourite subjects. Some dialing in is obvious, but you just have to play your game and see what's wrong and adjust from there.

Ball guides were mentioned and that would include inlane guides that feed the flippers. On most games the ball should not bounce as it is being delivered to the flipper. At a minimum, the left and right inlanes should be identical.

Other adjustments not mentioned above:
-> ramp flaps should not have a built in pop or bounce to them, or not be perfectly flush where they meet the PF. These things can cause air balls and take speed away from your ramp shots. When replacing my STTNG ramps for example, I had to add some foam under the blue steel flap to keep it from bottoming out and thus lifting its front edge a bit when I fully tightened those little screws (that pass through the flap).
-> the tilt needs to work and be set appropriately. To not even get warnings when repeatedly moving the game about means your plumb bob is too low (or entirely missing). Won't do you much good to have the tilt hardly engage on your setup whenever you play other people's games... although you can set your game up anyway you want I suppose.
-> VUK scoop kickouts should be consistent. If not, your metal scoop may be cracked, the coil stop/bracket loose, or just misaligned etc. For sure the ball should not dribble out sometimes and fire out normally other times. Saucer kickouts as well.

-> I'm picky about my flippers:
-- while your flippers may be strong, ensure you have the matching coil stops and plunger pairs (most commonly a newer WMS phenomenon but can apply to any pin). If not, the flipper arc can be smaller or larger than it should be. Smaller and the flipper may seem a bit flat when raised making cradles harder, but crossovers easier - not too mention moving the sweet spot and changing how your shots come off. If the arc if too large you'll be able to trap any ball coming down your inlane, backhand right into the outlane etc.
-- check your flipper coils to make sure you have the right ones. Sometimes the replaced ones are incorrect and strength is wrong. No wonder you can't make that ramp shot!
-- I don't agree with this but I've seen flipper home positions adjusted to suit the game. Pinholes aside, normally a flipper should run even with the inlane guide. On a game like HS2 with plenty of orbit shots, flippers drooping at rest (less than even with the inlane) will make those orbit shots sooo much easier to make.
-- buttons. My preference is to not have stiff springs inside the flipper button housing, or too much resistance from the leaf switch in the cab. A stiff button will tire you out in those long games, plus you lose that touch for some of the 'half hits' you need to make. Also, while it may not seem like much, the point of engagement, e.g. the gaps on the (leaf blades types) for both flipper buttons should be the same. Symmetry is your goal.
-- also for three flipper games, IMO your switch set up for the double flipper should be such that a small depress of the button will raise only the lower flipper, then the upper. You should be able to stage the flippers (have one raised, the other dropped) with a partial button depress. Sometimes on older games, the wiring/switch is reversed and the flippers stage backwards.

-> A cleaning thing but have the right lighting for your game. Wipe the soot off those GI bulbs, replace missing bulbs... ensure the lighting around your game is suitable, no glare (if you play with room lights on).

--> wireforms/habitrails sometime need a bit of twisting, or an extra washer and so on to keep those high speed balls on track. Nothing worse than hitting your shot and having the ball fall off and drain.

--> those single standup targets that seem to move to the side (or bend) after repeated hitting... I like to put them back where they started. They may need some help, an extra screw, tie wrap, realignment and tightening of the leaf blade switch assembly, or a reinforced target bracket. The TZ slot switch is a famous one, or even 'U' from Zuse in Tron can move over and narrow the Quorra shot.

--> smooth drop targets, with even resistance, consistent resetting; replacement white rubber is thicker than it used to be and can hinder the drop of a target;

--> even a lock down bar that doesn't move around or have sharp edges

Many other tweaks are truly game specific and should be made if I were to consider a game dialed in:
-- toys that behave, Sttng cannons working perfectly come to mind, Wolvervine clearance, etc.
-- ball locks gotta take, hold and release balls nicely. Certain games need tweaking here - TZ, BSD, even LOTR comes to mind.

 

[mwong168]

Good stuff guys and just made this into a "sticky". Thanks for starting it Drano!

 

[REVOLUTION]

On the topic of leaf switch adjustment. I don't currently have one of those leaf switch adjustment tools. They look like they would come in super handy. I didn't see this tool on the starburst website.

Honestly you could make your own with a coat hanger. Simple and free

 

[bstock]

On the topic of leaf switch adjustment. I don't currently have one of those leaf switch adjustment tools. They look like they would come in super handy. I didn't see this tool on the starburst website.

Honestly you could make your own with a coat hanger. Simple and free

Have people done this? Is there a preferred design?

 

[DRANO]

Here's what it looks like.
If you own EM pins, this tool and a Flex-Stone file are pretty much the only tools you'll need.

If you want to make your own I would try some 1/8" solid aluminum rod from a hobby store. You can easily bend it and also slice the two gaps with something like a Dremel.

 

[mwong168]

Here is an old article I found on pinballnews.com on how to level your pins:

http://www.pinballnews.com/learn/level/index.html

Here is another link to another homebrew tool called the PinRen “Wheelie-Bobber”

http://www.pinballnews.com/learn/pinballjack/index.html

 

[shadowbox]

Are there resources that will spell out how to do certain things step by step for pinball newbies like myself?

Just got my first pin (Metallica Pro) and feel like certain adjustments need to be made. I feel the tension of plunger is too strong, and the position of the right ramp seems off as the ball always bounces off the back of the pick target if it doesn't make it up. But I have no idea how to do any of this stuff....Are there owner groups or something out there?

 

[superjackpot]

Are there resources that will spell out how to do certain things step by step for pinball newbies like myself?

Just got my first pin (Metallica Pro) and feel like certain adjustments need to be made. I feel the tension of plunger is too strong, and the position of the right ramp seems off as the ball always bounces off the back of the pick target if it doesn't make it up. But I have no idea how to do any of this stuff....Are there owner groups or something out there?

Owner groups are around, here's a thread you could find some tips in. I haven't read this one but I'm sure you will learn something about your game, perhaps about your specific issue too.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/metallica-owners-thread

 

[VA3AVP]

There seems to be a bit of confusion lately with some of the newer collectors/players on what it means to dial in a game. So, just to offer a little clarification, here's a rundown.

"Dialing In" is simply the art properly setting up and adjusting your machine.
This can be just as important on a NIB as it would be on a game that's been on location for 20 years. Things are not always set up just right on the assembly line, and older games often need a lot of adjustment.

Most games require micro-adjustments to ensure that they play just as the designers intended.
Here are a few things that you may have to do. Please feel free to add your own if I've forgotten anything.

-first, make sure your game is set to the right pitch and is level left to right. Adjust the leg levellers so that the game has about a 6.5 degree pitch. Place your inclinometer or digital level on the playfield surface (not the glass).
Also check for left to right level on the playfield at both the top and bottom. Watch that your level is perfectly horizontal on the playfield before taking a reading. Faster or slower pitch is fine and a matter of taste.

-Flippers. These are the heart of your game. Make sure they are set to the right angle. On BW games there were often two small holes just behind the flippers. Remove the rubber, loosen the flippers from underneath and then place a toothpick in the hole and let the flipper rest on it... Then tighten. This is the correct position.
Sterns have the hole set so that the middle of the flipper should point directly to it. Other games may be different.

Also, adjust your EOS (end of stroke) switches under the flippers so that they do not open until the flipper is almost at the top of its travel. This will ensure stronger flippers with no loss of power.

-Ball guides must be adjusted properly. I had a TZ that, every time I would fire a ball into the right orbit, it would come out the left side and then clip a rubber post that was holding up the powerfield. I knew this is not what the designer intended. I bent and adjusted the curve of the stainless ball guide so that it cleared the post perfectly, but also did not fire it straight down the middle.

-Check that ramp entrances are smooth and ramps are not pitched too high. This can cause balls to be rejected more often than normal.

There are a lot of other little things, but these are the basics.
You'll want to insure that only correct parts are always installed. Also make sure rubber rings are the correct size and the correct tension spring is used in your shooter rod.

Rmemeber that this is not the same as "shopping" a machine. Essentially, our goal is to make the game as mechanically smooth as possible.

And don't forget a good regular cleaning/polish and waxing... and if your pinballs are pitted or scratched, install new ones.

Now go and enjoy!

Would love to hear what else others do

This is great news I often wonder on highspeed if I am doing something wrong the ramp shot seems difficult and I have the correct coil on flipper three it is rebuilt but many times the ball rejects off the rubber post at entrance of ramp or hits the plastic lip at the edge of the ramp and gets rejected it has to be a perfect center shot to make the ramp. I am assuming that's how the designer wanted it but I was wondering if a new ramp might make the shot smoother.

 

[DRANO]

It's not supposed to be an easy shot.
The clear ramp does cause less rattling around once the ball is in there, but it won't make the mouth/opening any easier to hit.

Once you get used to the timing and how your particular flipper behaves, you should be able to make that shot maybe half of the time depending on your skill level and other variables.

 

[spiroagnew]

I've always found this shot particularly difficult, as a non-HS owner. Hard to gauge the sweet spot when you step up to one you've never played before.

Sent from my SM-G920W8 using Tapatalk