Saw this game at lunch today and it's looking great. Adriano puts a lot of pride and passion in everything he does and it shows.
Dr@No's fun filled (and often long-winded) restorations
- Thread starter DRANO
- Start date
FULL HOUSE: getting through my playfield backlog one EM at a time: Jacks Open
Part 4
Well, the ongoing Jacks Open saga continues.
I gave up on the waterslide decals a few posts back for the playfield repairs. They were just too translucent to get a good colour match and covering.
I then went to a more traditional method of masking around all the text to airbrush the purple back in. The detail was simply too fine and I was getting uncomfortable about the results.
In the end, I decided on plan C. I painted over each of the purple circles in white and went back to using the waterslide decals. The white will give a nice even clean base for the decals and give a better colour reproduction.
These test images show the quality of the effect; near perfect. The only issue was that these decals were trimmed to tight. But, now that I'm happy with the results, I'll go back and make new ones that are a bit oversized and trim them directly on the playfield after application.
Part 4
Well, the ongoing Jacks Open saga continues.
I gave up on the waterslide decals a few posts back for the playfield repairs. They were just too translucent to get a good colour match and covering.
I then went to a more traditional method of masking around all the text to airbrush the purple back in. The detail was simply too fine and I was getting uncomfortable about the results.
In the end, I decided on plan C. I painted over each of the purple circles in white and went back to using the waterslide decals. The white will give a nice even clean base for the decals and give a better colour reproduction.
These test images show the quality of the effect; near perfect. The only issue was that these decals were trimmed to tight. But, now that I'm happy with the results, I'll go back and make new ones that are a bit oversized and trim them directly on the playfield after application.
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tkaye
Active Member
Just wanted to post a quick follow-up to this week's earlier update.
I reprinted the waterslide decals with a larger area of purple and applied them to the inserts. I let it dry overnight and went back today to trim away the excess.
Now, I don't want to jinx myself as the clearcoating has not been done yet, but you can clearly see that this method was the way to go (so far). The art looks great and accurate. trimming it after laying down the oversized decal gave me more room to play and a clean tight look.
Hoping to get a layer of clearocat on this today or monday, depends on my shop schedule, but I'm pretty happy with these results so far.
I just have to be very careful to not lay the next layer of clear too thick and risk the decals lifting and moving around on me.
That would suck!!!
I reprinted the waterslide decals with a larger area of purple and applied them to the inserts. I let it dry overnight and went back today to trim away the excess.
Now, I don't want to jinx myself as the clearcoating has not been done yet, but you can clearly see that this method was the way to go (so far). The art looks great and accurate. trimming it after laying down the oversized decal gave me more room to play and a clean tight look.
Hoping to get a layer of clearocat on this today or monday, depends on my shop schedule, but I'm pretty happy with these results so far.
I just have to be very careful to not lay the next layer of clear too thick and risk the decals lifting and moving around on me.
That would suck!!!
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One more small update.
Looks like I'm all set to go on clearcoating tonight. The shop is open late and the spray booth is clear.
I touched up the head cabinet over the weekend and, except for a little internal cleanup and polishing the siderails, the cabinet is complete.
It does look way better in the pics. You can still see the touch-ups if you look close, but it's still far better than original.
Looks like I'm all set to go on clearcoating tonight. The shop is open late and the spray booth is clear.
I touched up the head cabinet over the weekend and, except for a little internal cleanup and polishing the siderails, the cabinet is complete.
It does look way better in the pics. You can still see the touch-ups if you look close, but it's still far better than original.
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Fifty
Active Member
One question I had for you Dr@No was about your masking technique. For example, on your Jacks Open PF, you mask off everything but the red areas for painting. What do you use as mask, and how do you cut out the area's of the mask? I'm guessing an X-acto blade, but how do you avoid cutting into the PF? Thank you!
FiftyQuid said:
I use frisket film. It's the gold standard for airbrushing and has been around for years.
It has great masking ability without being overly sticky and it cuts very very easily with low pressure. I buy mine at Curry's art supply. It's not cheap
I also have a nice scalpel (purchased from pinrestore.com) that I like to use and there is no way to avoid cutting the playfield. The cuts are so fine that the next layer of clear fills them in. What you have to be careful with is not cutting the new clear too deep and lifting it. As you can imagine, it takes several layers of airbrushing and masking and cutting to do a repair, so you will eventually be cutting into the previous clearcoat layer. In bad cases, the lifting can resemble the 'ghosting' that you see on certain playfield inserts (ie. TOTAN, CV). I won't bore you with details, but touching that up becomes a much bigger pain. Better to just use a fresh blade each time and not press too hard.
Here's a great example of the level of detail you can acheive with frisket and a steady hand.
These masks were done for a spot repair on MWONG's TOTAN.
Hope this helps.
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Fifty
Active Member
FiftyQuid said:
There isn't really a good application for using it on cabs. To be honest, I either redo an entire cab from scratch (new decals or ready made masks) or I simply touch up with some paint pens and call it a day. It depends on how nice I need that particlular game to be. I rarely get involved in masking and painting a cab unless I'm refreshing an old wedgehead or other EM. In those cases a hard stencil yields way more authentic results.
One day I plan to refresh my Banzai Run cabinet. I will probably clearcoat it and sand it smooth before touch-ups. In that case only, I may use some frisket masking... or some of the readily available masks already out there for that game.
My C37 refresh is a classic example of that. I tried frisket at first and was not happy with the results.
See more details here:
Centigrade 37 cabinet stencil and re-paint:
viewtopic.php?f=10&t=1699viewtopic.php?f=10&t=1699
FULL HOUSE: getting through my playfield backlog one EM at a time: Jacks Open
Part 5
It took over a year (well, a lot of that was me doing other stuff ) but Jacks Open is finally DONE!!!!!!!!!
With the owner's birthday coming up and my shop needing some space, I finally kicked it into high gear.
The playfield had only cured for a couple of weeks, so he is forbidden from playing it for a while, but reassembly just took place over the Thanksgiving long weekend. I'm sure the owner is thankful it's done... as am I
Here are some glamour shots:
I must give some thanks to my quality control department
And finally, the happy owner.
Thanks for your patience!!!
Part 5
It took over a year (well, a lot of that was me doing other stuff
) but Jacks Open is finally DONE!!!!!!!!!With the owner's birthday coming up and my shop needing some space, I finally kicked it into high gear.
The playfield had only cured for a couple of weeks, so he is forbidden from playing it for a while, but reassembly just took place over the Thanksgiving long weekend. I'm sure the owner is thankful it's done... as am I
Here are some glamour shots:
I must give some thanks to my quality control department
And finally, the happy owner.
Thanks for your patience!!!
Attachments
Most excellent work as usual Drano.
That is Simon's happy look!
I will still likely commission Drano to do my JO in 20-25 years when he retires.
If he dares...
That is Simon's happy look!
I will still likely commission Drano to do my JO in 20-25 years when he retires.
If he dares...
What a great birthday present to have my JO back. Thanks again Drano. It plays real sweet. Hard to let it cure when all i wanna do is bash those targets.
It's been a good long time since I posted anything in here.
Finishing that last project meant it was time for a little breather... but instead of relaxing, I went a little off the deep end and bought a crap load of pins and started several new projects.
Maybe a little photo montage would be the best way to go through it.
First... what came in:
Phew!!!
I'm sure there may be one or two new games that I missed but, admittedly, it is getting hard to keep track of all this :FP:
Next, I'll go into a little detail on a few of these and what's coming down the pipe.
Finishing that last project meant it was time for a little breather... but instead of relaxing, I went a little off the deep end and bought a crap load of pins and started several new projects.
Maybe a little photo montage would be the best way to go through it.
First... what came in:
Phew!!!
I'm sure there may be one or two new games that I missed but, admittedly, it is getting hard to keep track of all this :FP:
Next, I'll go into a little detail on a few of these and what's coming down the pipe.
Attachments
FastEd said:Oh my, that is quite the haul! Congrats on your new acquisitions!
Where does the lineup start for the Funhouse?
Thanks.
There's one or two guys who've expressed interest in FH