I just brought a bag of the Ultra Dust in but haven't had a chance to test it on anything yet. Soon though.... and I'll post my thoughts once completed.
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I don't own one of these fancy desoldering tools, I've got the old fashioned soldapult and my iron and I get along just fine. With these you have no choice but to have the PCB horizontal on your bench. With this desolder tool though the recommendation is to use the tool in a horizontal...
My only word of advice, and Clay seems to suggest the same on his ninja site is to not use this type of tool with the PCB laying on a workbench but upright... Not sure as to why at the moment but maybe by being upright you're not working against gravity as much so you get better results...
Can't say I've ever seen a latch oscillate, usually it either works or it doesn't. Has he probed the line with a probe or scope to see what it's doing?
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The suggested alternates are basically the same as the IRL540N, so you're good to go. The only FET's you should consider upgrading are the ones that control the flippers. All the other coils should be fine.
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If you are measuring the voltage from the switch arm through the PF and the metal ball guide, your
If the voltage you are getting is being measured from the switch arm and the metal side rail that the ball is touching, you just need to locate whatever GI socket is touching something it...
My only concern is teh vid doesn't show the removal of any large IC's, but not to fear... I will borrow Mike's S-993A and put it through it's paces and report back.
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7-8VAC would suggest there is a GI socket touching something under the PF as GI is approximately 6.3VAC. I would look for a GI lamp socket touching a switch blade or something else under the PF.
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Blue sucker works for me... but I'm sure if I got myself an FR300 I'd agree it's a great tool. I guess for me the blue sucker is more than adequate for the majority of pinball PCB work, but I can see it's merits for things like PIA chips and the like.
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