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Hmm, good point! D

Not really, they seem to be in the same range or cheaper than Mirco and the like. That RG plastic set seems a bit steep tho. D

That's a fantastic buy. Great to see people are taking the initiative to get stuff like this made on their own. D

Just order up the correct era DE flipper rebuild kit from PBR and you'll get everything you need. I think the "ultiimate" is just clever marketing from DE at the time. Glad you got it up and running. D

If it's the wood that is cracking at all, you'll likely need to fill it with bondo or wood filler then sand / prime / paint. Best to mask everything off and paint the entire front edge to keep it uniform too. As for what to use, I've used the rustoleum sprays in the past with good success for...

Re: Re: Sounds like you're running into the "other side" of the collector market Dan, which has seriously soured the hobby for me as well. I'm nowhere near as involved or as excited about the hobby as I once was due to how it has "matured". At least we still have a pretty good idea of who's...

Re: Which is exactly the way it SHOULD be, and always used to be back in the day... Unfortunately given the climate of today's market this isn't as prevalent as it used to be. Thankfully most of the collectors look out for each other. D

It's amazing he doesn't charge a finders fee... D

I moved the strike plate on this IJ back 1/8" when I shopped it out earlier this year for the owner. I can't remember if I installed any of the tape / foam on the sides or back plate though... As for the E/B call out, no idea as I don't own the game so cannot comment. D

Your European background keeps you looking so young, can't believe you're 40! ;) Hope you have an awesome Birthday buddy. D

So nice... Makes me wish I had time to work on my own games! D

Chris, Rule of thumb with design is the avg load is 50% of rated fuse, so 5A fuse would normally run around 2.5A. This way you have lots of headroom for transient peaks. This isn't hard and fast rule, but usually how things work out. D

That's fine, but if the game is still blowing the correctly rated SB fuse there is still something not right in that circuit. Something is drawing more current than the circuit is designed to handle, and usually fuses are spec'd based on wire AWG and PCB trace sizes to avoid fires. D

Maybe you were using FB where you should have been using SB? I just re-read what I wrote and I need to correct myself. Breakers don't act like FB fuses, they react more like SB fuses in that they are slower to react to short over-current situations. I have edited my original post. D

Not a bad question. Normally you would want to use a breaker that is rated the same as the fuse you are replacing, BUT the condition in which you'd like the breaker to trip will depend on the type of fuse it's replacing. With a SB fuse, the current draw can actually exceed the rated fuse...

In this market, you'd probably get a silly amount of money for it if everything you mention is true... (and when I say "back in the day" I'm talking less than 10 year ago) D

I figure it's a long shot, but here's the deal. (in case anyone is planning to do some wallpapering or whatever) Roman PRO-732 heavy duty clay based adhesive for wallpaper or any other wall covering. (like vinyl etc) Bought a 5 gallon pail of this stuff because it was in stock and didn't feel...

Back in the day the game would have to be minty at that price. In today's ridiculous market, it likely got sold last night for more than asking... D

+1 for Robin Live @ the Met. Hands down his best stand-up for sure. Robin has given so much laughter and enjoyment to my entire family over the years, and he will be sorely missed. D

Re: Cost for an operator to put a single machine on location I had to increase the contents portion of my insurance to cover my collection, but that was it. I could have got a specific rider for them but it didn't make sense given they fall under contents. D