Search results

You can never tell how good a game is going to be just by looking at it. Only way to judge is to wait and play it. D

Heh... it's like potato chips! You can't have just one! Just be careful as it's a VERY slippery slope. D

Well, hopefully that's all it is but in all the years I've been fixing pinball machines I've never encountered a diode that would cause the behavior you're experiencing. D

The issue with upgrading the speakers in a Sys11 game isn't going to net you the same results as say a WPC-DCS game. The issue is the source sounds are very compressed, so a lot of the sonic information is already lost before you even begin. As Walt mentioned, adding a powered sub is probably...

As much as I can't stand Mitchell, I have to give the guy credit he's got skills. D

Absolutely. As the black rubber breaks down it has to go somewhere. That's another reason I like white rubber, as it "tells you" when the game needs to be wiped down. :) D

Normally if the diode goes bad, it's bad. No in-between with them. And if the diode had gone bad, it would have taken out the drive transistor on the first flip. There must be a small short somewhere along that flipper coil wiring somewhere that only gets triggered with vibration, which is...

The durometer between white and black rubber is the reason games play differently with each installed. Sure having brand new fresh rubber on a game will change the dynamics regardless of colour, but white rubber is absolutely more lively than black due to the durometer rating. I would also...

The GI chain on these games is pretty simple, and where you have the schematics the only thing you should be doing is ringing out the wires from the source (transformer) all the way through the chain (PCB's) to the socket chains on the PF. You should also be able to probe each pair of GI wire...

Yep, intermittent issues are a royal pain to troubleshoot. Glad to hear it's at least working good now. D

I hope this isn't a stupid question, but the fuses you were using originally were 3A slow blow right? D

LOL, that's the new Kijiji tactic to get around the flames of hosting an auction. I highly doubt it'll go cheap. D

Ok, so it's just that flipper fuse then. I would check the resistance of that flipper coil and then and compare it to the one that doesn't blow the fuse. If they have the same part# and they measure vastly different I would look into swapping in a new coil. Start there and keep it simple. D

Is it the flipper fuse under the PF that's blowing just for that flipper, or is it a fuse on the driver that supplies power to other PF coils that's blowing? D

When you say you tested the flippers in switch test, did you just flip the flipper with the flipper button or take the glass off and manually move the flipper bats to the up position with your hand and check for EOS activation? And how intermittent is the issue? It sounded originally like this...

Nope, the MosFET that drives that flipper either works or doesn't. So you confirmed in switch test that the EOS switches are both working correctly electrically? Just because they look like they are mechanically working correctly doesn't' mean the MPU is receiving the correct information from...

I have seen some games with busted EOS switches where a previous "tech" hacked them so the game thought they were always closed and always had the high power active. D

Bad or broken EOS switch / wire would be where I would start. The game is not recognizing the flipper is being held up and cutting the high power so it's blowing the fuse after a small period of time. Easiest way of checking the eos switch is put the game into switch test and manually raise...