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Might help if you updated your profile with your location, this way people that are more local to you might be interested. D

Just go with a vehicle you can transport the game in, and have cash in hand. That way you know exactly what you're getting and can take the game as-is where-is. If you can't take the game with you on the spot, that's when people get screwed. D

Yikes.... it's worth about half that if you ask me. And one thing to be weary of with that era of Data East game is the larger DMD display. If that ever fails, a replacement will be VERY expensive if you can find one. Alternatively you can replace it with an LCD panel and raspberry Pi setup...

That's what I was thinking as well, but I'd like to know if this already comes with some sort of protection layer... No sense adding mylar and risk screwing it up if there is already something in place. D

I'm still in for one in yellow please. Question, will there be any protective coating installed on these repro's to help protect them? Thanks, D

Most track-ball's that I've ever seen are rebuild-able. Depending on the MFG of the ball (it won't be Chicago Gaming) you should be able to buy a rebuild kit, with new rollers and bearings. Before you go that route you could always take it apart and just clean the rollers and see if the...

Any DMD that is slow to boot up or "warm up" is a sign of outgassing. Where this display has been in use since 1992, it's not surprising that its outgassing. There is no exact time frame as to when a display will outgass, it's all dependent on the environmental factors it has seen over it's...

The reason it's slow to boot on first power up is it's outgassing. D

Before you go re-pinning try unplugging and re-plugging all of the connectors in between the transformer and the PCB, you might find that the wiping motion of this action will bring the voltage up to spec. If this works, then you have verified the connector needs to be re-pinned...

Yeah, the new LED ColorDMD is the same size as the original DMD as far as I know so installing into IJ should be no problem with the jackpot lighting board. D

And for the record, those parts are called "Ring & Rod" for the pop bumpers. D

You only need to install that yellow cap across the two lugs of the EOS on the flipper mechanism. Zip tie the yellow cap to the post the EOS is screwed down to, and then solder each lead from the cap to each of the EOS lugs. This is to help arrest the sparking of the EOS switch and keep the...

Yeah, if the switch was not gapped correctly that coil will lock on and the smoke (if it was from the coil and not the backbox) could mean it's toast if not caught in time. If you can still manually actuate that coil by hand and it's niec a free then it *could* be ok, but only way to know for...

That I am not sure of... sorry. D

AC/DC, Kiss, Tron, Apollo 13, JudgeDredd, Taxi, Whirlwind, Genesis, Bobby Orr Power Play, Old Chicago, Star Wars Ep.1, Pennant Fever, Ice Cold Beer. Bunch of vids. D

Congrats! D

Damnit... I need to get your MPU on the bench! I just cleared out 3 PCB's this week, maybe I'll have some time in the next week or so to start on yours. D

If you ever feel like traveling, I would suggest attending the Bluffs Pinball League. They have a decent collection of machines from all era's and they meet on a weekly basis. http://www.portunionpinball.com/bluffs-pinball-league.html D

Yeah, you can't really go by how other people rate games as it's ALL very subjective. The only recommendation I can make is to get out and play as many different titles as you can find, and form your own opinions on which games you enjoy. Once you have an idea of what you like, you'll have a...

Welcome to the club! It's funny you mention the dance hall @ Mussleman's Lake, as my Dad used to work there as a young teen and I've heard a few stories about it over the years. If you have any titles you're interested in let people know, as you never know what might be available. D