Search results

Thanks for the kind words guys. Yes, I do board repair and I have done remote repairs in the past but as Mike has pointed out I'm a little reluctant for the reasons he's mentioned. I also currently don't have access to any sys6 games so I would have to source one to test any repaired boards...

It's all good, he booked me for a service call and I went up and fixed it. Ended up being a cracked solder joint on the lower opto PCB on the mech. D

Depending on WHEN the squeal happens, yes. This delay's the sound output from the amp on startup and disconnects it as soon as you turn it off. I could test it in my shadow and see, but I designed it to work in both DCS and Non-DCS games. Problem is, all of the units I'm building up now are...

Yeach it's been quiet because the relays I ordered from Asia still haven't arrived! The rest of the components have been installed, just waiting for relays and then I can build harnesses and test. Once that's done I can send out PayPal invoices and ship. Hopefully the relays will arrive soon, I...

I just fixed that TZ for the owners a few weeks ago. Great beer... D

This is fairly normal behavior for Sterns. It's not coming through the sound system, it's the actual flipper coil buzzing under the playfield. Nothing to worry about. D

Yep, these are both the same generation of WPC MPU. You will lose all of your scores and settings... D

The RAM is the IC between the ASIC and the ROM on the MPU. It's soldered in, so swapping it isn't exactly easy. D

Not a terrible idea... especially where it's easy to do. D

I would try a factory reset from the service menu and see if that resolves things. It's definitely not a connector issue. Report back after. D

Tommy drop ships all of his games so pricing includes shipping. If he truly is opening an office here in the GTA that would be great. I am already helping him service GTA customers! D

GPE or Rottondog on the rectifier PCB all day long. Even though GPE has the better one of the two, Ed doesn't usually have stock on it very often. The RD version is just as good quality wise, just doesn't come with all the nice extra's. (GPE version comes with all the pins and connectors to...

Pretty much everything on the driver PCB is 0.156", except the switch matrix connectors. As for pins, go with the 18-20AWG size. Trifuricon pins are the standard molex pins but they are a 3 sided design that grabs each pin on 3 sides instead of just the blade contacting on the one side...

I'm screwed... I've got pins and a classic car! D

That's pinball baby! These things are designed to break... regardless of age. If you don't like it, find another hobby to sink your time and money into. D

Get all the stuff you need from Ed @ Great Plains Electronics. Pickup a bag of trifuricon pins, some housings and then the crimp tool for the pins. If you're not sure of what to order, you can post here or just drop Ed an email and let him know what you're trying to do and he will set you...

I would personally fix everything in these pics, as the previous "tech" was either lazy or just didn't give a f*ck. All wires should be connected, regardless if the game *seems* to be working 100% or not. They are there for a reason. Only way to do this correctly is get a good set of...

That was a fantastic piece... Being a spectator on the sidelines from beginning to end of this tale, it's nice to hear the story and history from so many perspectives. I *almost* rolled the dice back in 2004, and I've kicked myself ever since for not doing it. D

While this is an interesting poll, the ONLY type of "invisible" glass that I would ever consider is the stuff that PDI makes. Reason being, all the other options available are just a film that is applied to a standard sheet of tempered glass and it's very easy to scratch / mess up. The PDI...

Tim, if you notice the flipper getting weak again try cleaning the opto's with a q-tip and rubbing alcohol. If it's still weak it could also be a failing opto. I see this more than you know during my travels. D