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When using any phone level app, you must calibrate it on a confirmed 100% level surface prior to using it on ANYTHING / ANYWHERE /ANYTIME. Chris, if you do what you suggest your game will always be off by whatever the pitch of the floor the game is standing on. For instance, if the floor the...

Ahhh see... there's the diff. When I restore a machine it gets all new posts (if they are available because some posts are NLA), but when I shop a machine out for a client they usually never opt for new posts so the US cleaner is exactly what's needed. Nothing worse than giving a machine back...

Yep, I concur with everything Drano has said. For plastic parts (especially star posts caked with old novus / wax) there is nothing better. A couple of minutes in my US cleaner and the posts come out looking new after a quick once over (and sometimes a very light brush with an old toohbrush)...

Stan is good peeps. Glad you got a good deal. D

This is where I must disagree, not all things are created equal. The meter you use ultimately should yield you the same results if you know what you are doing, but the Fluke will make getting you those result with way less hassle and with more accurate results. I can't tell you how many cheap...

Marc, BAA has it in stock; http://bayareaamusements.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=GS-JP545-5155-00 Might also drop Steve at PBR a line to see if he has one. D

Yep, complete coincidence. D

Wonder if that is the Bally Atlantis or the GTB one? D

James hit the nail on the head when it comes to the DMM in your toolbox. Spend the $$ on a good Fluke DMM and be happy you did, it'll be the last one you ever buy! (I'm still using my first Fluke DMM and I've had it for over 20 years!) I can't tell you how many times I've been to a collectors...

I'd be up for something like this. Been too long since all the players have been in one place. D

Here's the link to the tech post I just entered. http://www.pinballrevolution.com/viewtopic.php?f=43&t=2157&p=18289#p18289 D

So I'm supposed to be posting my repair adventures to this section but I have been slacking. Not due to lack of repairs, but more to do with the fact I keep forgetting to take pictures of said repairs along the way, and I feel posts without pics just plain suck! So I apologize to those...

You've definitely got a shorted FET that will need replacing along with another new coil. Few things to note; -When removing the old coil, make note of which wires go where in relation to the DIODE ON THE COIL, not the coil lugs. Coils themselves do not have a polarity but if the coil has a...

Alright, my turn. I've been working on shopping a client's IJ (for WAAAAAAAY too long I might add, for lots of reasons) and I've managed to finally get everything all back together minus the ramp divertor. At some point the original spring on the divertor broke and someone hacked a shooter rod...

I vote for Shadow! D

Yes, you can use the 8 ohm in place of the 4 ohm without stressing any of the components but the max volume will not be as loud as before. (technically about half as loud) D

Ahhh yes... the "poor man's" Black Knight. I love mine! And Trudeau is certainly a class act. Nice to hear when you get designers of his caliber respond so positively. D

I'm gonna skip straight to triple dog dare.... 8-) D

Sweet! Lots-o-room for pins! D

Tim, If it's not a cold solder joint you are most likely looking at a failed UDN7180 chip, which I will state for the record now are made of unobtainium. (unfortunately) The worst part about these types of failures is they are almost impossible to verify if the UDN is bad with standard tools...