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I cannot see where these two wires connect to, sorry - not sure they are original ? For the score motor always running - Player 2 & 3 are not reset to 0, so the score motor will keep turning at game start until the machine has properly reset all score counters and steppers to their zero...

I would first look at: - target bank contacts - under the playfield - Advance unit contacts/alignment - in the head - Special, Target, Advance1 and Advance2 relay contacts in the cabinet. Good luck!

Hi Bruce, Folding the head typically tugs on the harness - so in addition to the possibly suspect EOS, there could be a broken-off wire on a coil lug under the playfield, a slightly pulled connector or a cold solder joint on a pin under J2 on the Solenoid Driver.

Green circle. Is there good pressure between those two closed contacts while the flipper is at its rest position ? Did you gently sand or 'flexstone' those two contacts? BTW, there are good web sites regarding how to test continuity, voltage measurements, flipper end-of-stroke adjustment and...

The normally closed End-of-Stroke switch blades near the flipper under the playfield do not look very good. Worn. Is there good pressure to keep those contacts closed with the flippers not activated? Have you tried sanding those contacts (they are the two middle closed together contacts...

Issues for one side non-working flipper(s) are usually very simple. Typically, First: 1- check that the end-of-stroke switch (EOS - under the playfield actuated by the flipper pawl) contacts are properly adjusted and clean; These contacts can be sanded - but do not sand any other small switch...

Could be a few things: - intermittent short in a bulb on that line, or something close to a socket intermittently shorts to something - ensure your replacement transistor is proper (correct specs/number) - check resistor R33 for proper value - check pre-driver transistor Q59. Good luck! -Sylvain.

You will need to get a replacement coil and replace that first. Yes, those transistors can be replaced by a tech. without getting a new board again. Easy. I think there is someone (Tommy?) doing quality board repair in Ontario. He is probably a member here, and he is also on eBay.ca. You should...

Yes.

F3710Z is a MOSFET high-power drive transistor. Looking from the top of the board, left to right, the pinout of each of those drive transistor is: gate drain source Start with your old original driver board. You should be able to put your DMM in ohm or continuity/beeper test. Chances are...

What is the number on these transistors? I cannot see on the pic... Also, if you have the game manual and schematics, locate the castle coil that is burned in your game, and follow the schematics diagram to identify which transistor drives it.

Given the fact that the fuse did not blow immediately at power-up with the new board, but did with the old board, proves that the old driver board definitely has a shorted drive transistor on that circuit to that coil. So you did not waste your money on that board, at least initially...

Here's one in Montreal. Not mine and I do not know the seller: https://www.kijiji.ca/v-jouets-jeux/ville-de-montreal/pinball-machine/1525756517?undefined Good luck! -Sylvain.

Looks like there is a short to that line, or most likely the associated drive transistor (to this specific VUK coil) is shorted on the driver board. You will need the game manual and a Digital multimeter to identify the bad part(s) first, then obtain a proper replacement, and replace it...

Can we assume that F1 is a slow-blow fuse? Probably is my guess. The other question is why that fuse blew in the first place. If it blows again after replacement with a proper-rated fuse, then it could be the drive (transistor/snubbing diode across the coil which might be located on a board)...

Other sources: - 2018 Mr.Pinball Price Guide book - author: Daina Pettit. Lists the 1980 GTB Amazing Spiderman fully working with no visible wear on backglass or playfield, new rubber rings, for $1675 USD. - Boston Pinball in the US also has an eBay sales page of compiled sold prices...

Check and confirm that the Player-up unit and Coin unit steppers properly reset to their 'zero' position at game start, e.g. that their ratchets are not mechanically gummed-up, and that all springs are present on those units, so they can return to zero at game start, once their reset coil is...

Re: Pascal board, is it only the MPU, or combining MPU/Driver/power supply? The MPU-Driver harness is also often problematic on those games, especially if the original MPU had battery corrosion that might have impacted pins inside the harness. I would recommend basic troubleshooting be...

The real question is what made it burn... I assume it was good 'from the factory'. EOS not opening? or reversed wire connections on lugs? Good luck! -Sylvain.

I would check the microswitches in the through for proper closing (mechanical and electrical), proper switch detection at the MPU (e.g. switch test including the microswitches in the through under the apron). Plus I would also remove the apron to look at the balls being properly fed down through...