Yeah, game on and in attract mode you should see voltage on all lugs of every coil. If you have zero voltage on either lug of that coil, start looking for a blown fuse, or a broken wire.
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Ground strap will be the silver ground braid running through the lower cab connecting all the metal bits together. Just slide the black lead of your DMM in behind the strap somewhere. Put the meter into VDC or the flat line with the dots (usually the second setting on the dial if it's a...
Based on your description of that connector I would 100% say that header has a broken / cold solder joint. Pop that PCB out of the game, touch up each and every header with new solder and you should be back in biz.
As for your lazer kicker, if you have a DMM test the voltage on each lug of the...
If it's going to be your very first game, I would highly recommend you find something in 100% working condition. I've heard too many stories of first time buyers picking up a project only to get very discouraged trying to get it running and ultimately ruining the fun of the hobby before it even...
I realize any "working" DMD is better than no DMD, but something for any prospective buyers to keep in mind is outgassing DMD's actually place more stress on the High Voltage section of the the DMD controller.
Keep that in mind when considering using an outgassing DMD.
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Before you dig in too deep, start by cleaning the flipper switch and the EOS switch with a q-tip and rubbing alcohol. Also look for any broken wires on the flipper button and EOS switches, especially the EOS as I've seen a number of these with broken blades as of late. If you have one handy...
If I *EVER* purchase a NIB game, it'll be through a US outlet regardless of the extra work it would take. I'm not interested in supporting their monopoly, or their business practices and I'd end up paying less even after taxes! They clearly don't care about my business so why should I care...
The thing that boggles my mind is even when you spend north of 10K on a NIB game, they won't even make special arrangements for you to pick the game up on a Saturday... SAD! (said in my best Trump voice)
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Could be cold solder joints on the flipper PCB inside the lower cab too. Pop the coin door open and look for the PCB screwed to the left side of the cab. There should be LED's that activate when you press the flipper buttons, make sure they are all lighting up.
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I have the ROM patcher software. I think it was created by a pinhead, and it "corrects" the lamp matrix code timing to operate like the later WPC95 code. By doing this it eliminates the ghosting effects on the earlier WPC games.
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5V section on the driver is clearly bad, it's a relatively simple circuit and shouldn't be difficult to sort with the schematics.
Also don't get too far ahead of yourself regarding the cannons. They will also do that if the game boots up but the regulated 12V is missing for the opto's.
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