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I'm going out on a limb here and say no. :woot: D

I love how in the vid he's poking around under the PF like that while the power is on... :picard: You'd think after FINALLY getting a MG, and the fact there are so few and support for these things is more like likely going to be ZERO you would take a little more precaution. D

Wouldn't that be funny... the games all get built but there is zero gameplay? HAHAHAHAHAA D

I could, but it's more than just soldering (you would have to build two small harnesses as well), and if I don't build them I cannot guarantee it works or the build quality. I'm about halfway through soldering all of the PCB's up but I'm still waiting for 2 components from HK. (they shipped a...

All of the new rails I've bought have coated without any issue, it's just the originals I've removed and tried to coat that warp and destroy themselves. You should be good. D

The only word of advice I can give on the powdercoat is you will have to buy new side rails in order for this to work. The original side rail gauge is too thin, and the heat from the baking process is too high and warps the crap out of them. Beyond that, just take your time and take lots of...

What are you looking to do with it? Just a complete rebuild? D

It is a pain to do the double sided ones. As for what pins work, not sure now as the split pins originally used in the double sided connectors are no longer available. I would just look into buying an assembled replacement from someone like Docent Electronics for the double sided harnesses. D

Well, you're having lots of different intermittent issues which leads me to believe these are being caused by bad/flakey connector pins. Before you keep chasing your tail, I would eliminate all of the connector pins by replacing them. Then you will have at least eliminated all of the weak...

I am tentatively heading to London on Saturday and coming home Sunday. I should have room for one pin, drop me a PM. D

Wow, this is HUGE news. No longer hamstrung by the A/V Asic (even though it was made available again), at least owners now have options. D

If all of the pins in the game haven't been replaced yet and all of the ground mods done, I would be focusing my time on all of that before you continue. Yes it's a LOT of work, but clearly the game sound works just intermittent. PCB level components don't usually exhibit this behavior but bad...

I cannot stress how important it is for anyone that owns a game to make sure they have the schematics for it. You never know when someone will need it, and I can guarantee *someone* will need it at some point for a repair. Nice catch on the connector swap, and it's the little things like this...

Awesome. I'm patiently waiting for the Wh20 re-orch! D

I like it! (and I'm not one for mods) D

I would say you are correct with the connectors, they are swapped on that PCB vs. the schematics. Now that isn't to say the schematics are correct though, as I've seen misprints before. I would think you could swap those two connectors without issue, but it will reverse the operation of the...

I will let you guys know if I have any extra, the issue will be blank PCB's. I'm building up everything I have available and I'll let you know what I've got. I'm waiting for the last set of parts to arrive from Hong Kong to finish assembly. D

That's like asking me what my favorite song is, or food, or movie... impossible question to answer. Any pinball could be my favorite, as long as I'm playing pinball. (or in my case working on it) D

I was under the impression the code for Doc changed on the VE to remove an exploit on the original? D

I think changing any of those transistors is only going to help if you have a whole COLUMN out, not a row. You need to start looking at the resistor networks, specifically SR11. If that checks out you've likely got an issue with the 4011 IC's and using a logic probe and a schematic you should...